Not looking too shabby for thirty, if I do say so myself.
I'll be honest and say that before I went to Malta that it wasn't exactly on my bucket list of places to travel to. I barely knew where it was and little to nothing about its history. So how did I arrive at the tiny island nation with its unique blend of Moorish architecture, Italian-influenced cuisine and one of a kind dialect?
It just seemed like a perfect place to visit for my 30th birthday, which was also to highlight as my accomplish of reaching 30 countries. Being a late spring baby, however, I'm used to having my birthday rained in on so the beach bunny in me needed to get away from the cold and dreariness of continental Europe and get somewhere warm and sunny.
This made the choice even more difficult as I was already living in Spain (one of the sunniest countries and filled with blue flag beaches yet already on my travel list as country #7) and, taking into account the time of year, a lot of places were still freezing, especially to the north. Like Spain, Portugal, Italy, France were also already roads well-traveled and anywhere above the Mediterranean was a no-go so I had to head somewehere more tropical.
Cost was also a heavy factor, considering I had friends flying from as far as the US and didn't want to add the burden of going anywhere with a hefty pricetag. Goodbye, Greece, where transportation alone could quickly rack up the bill and one of the best parts of being there would be island-hopping.
What about island nations along the Mediterranean? Most islands are owned by some continental superpower but a few are independent such Cyprus and Malta, the former of which required a car to get around and, as a lifelong pedestrian, I’ve never had a license since I’d learned to use a metro pass when young.
By process of elimination Malta became my de facto choice so I decided to take a chance on this small Mediterranean island and am I ever glad I did! Everything worked out perfectly from day one and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend going there to anyone else who might be interested so here are some tips on how to travel Malta in one week or less with a rough itinerary to start and a further break-down afterwards. Feel free to mix and match activities depending on your agenda and as they say in Maltese, Il-vjagg it-tajjeb!
Day One:
Settle in and exploring the neighbourhood
Wander around Balluta (LOVE monument), St. George’s and Spinola Bays
Consider going to Paceville for some nightlife; Native Bar has decent drink specials
Day Two:
Visit Valletta (about 20-25 minute bus ride if staying in St. Julian’s or Sliema)
Wander around its historic, picturesque streets
Make sure to see Tritons’ Fountain, St. John’s Co-Cathedral, the Upper Barrakka Gardens and Wuestenwinds Beach (which is more a gorgeous port to lookout from than a sandy coast)
Eat at authentic Italian cuisine at Trattori La Vecchia Taranto (affordable fare and knowledgeable staff; the chef even gave us freebies for chatting him up!)
Day Three:
Head to St. Peter’s Pool (about a half hour taxi from Valletta)
Ghar Lapsi (a little cove great for swimming about another 40-minute car ride from previous destination)
Blue Grotto (40-minutes away from previous destination via bus transfer)
Day Four:
Explore Popeye Village (about 90 minutes on two buses or 1-hour bus to half-hour walk; make sure to arrive early before all the sunbeds fill up and pack your own food)
Ahrax Open Cave (30-minutes away from previous destination by direct bus)
Kayak into the cave if you aren’t feeling brave enough to jump in
Dry off and head home before high-tide sets in
Day Five:
Visit Gozo (one-hour bus to 45-minute ferry)
Rent quad-bikes to go exploring
Visit Ramla Beach (30-minute ride to destination from quad-bike office)
Marsal Sea Pans (another 20-minute ride)
Ta’Pinu (30-minute ride)
The Blue Hole (10-minute ride)
Return quad-bikes (last 30-minute ride)
Take the ferry back (24-hour service) and catch the bus home
Day Six:
Cruise over to Comino (15-minute bus ride to tour agency’s departure location, depending on accommodation)
Blue Lagoon (1-minute walk from arrival port)
Crystal Bay (8-minute walk from previous destination)
Saint Marija Bay (25-minute walk from previous destination or a few euros by tuk-tuk service)
Return to arrival port for departure
Once back in town, dine at Barracuda to unwind
Make sure to pack up in advance and check into any impending flights
Dance the night away at Havana Club (open until at least 6AM)
Day Seven:
Recover from the nights before by visiting the Victorian Roman pools
Head over to M’dina to wander around the former capital (about 1-hour bus ride away from Sliema via transfer)
Eat some authentic Maltese cuisine at Medina
Visit a museum or two if you can spare the time
Fly off
Accommodation
The two best neighbourhoods to stay in while in Malta are undoubtedly St. Julian's and Sliema, the former being a bit more popular while the latter still has a life of its own. Separated by a 20-30 minute walk, these boroughs hold all the ritzy hotels, glam boutiques and after-dark venues that one could ask for. As St. Julian’s is known more for its crazy party atmosphere these days, for those who want a quieter place to stay with amenities in reach would do well to reside in Sliema.
For those who prefer a more relaxed stay, away from city centers and hordes of tourists, I’d also recommend Bugibba, St. Paul’s Bay and particularly Mellieha to the northwest of the island where the latter is renowned for its proximity to nicer beaches and access to the other islands that make up Malta. As we would be six people when I went, I splurged on getting us a 3-bedroom AirBnB right off the main square in Sliema that only ended up costing 20€/night/person, all of which I happily paid for. If you’re traveling solo or in a pair or just fancy nicer digs, there are many other options available. Find out more below:
St. Julian’s
Budget-friendly:
Traveling with kids/in a group: St. Julian’s Bay Hotel - 3-4-bed private rooms with ensuite bathroom for ~160-190€/night
Traveling in a pair: Marco Polo Hostel - deluxe double bedroom with private bath for ~110€/night
Traveling alone: Inhawi Hostel - outdoor swimming pool, free breakfast and all-female or mixed dorms for ~35€/night
Glitzy:
Traveling with kids/in a group: Hotel Golden Tulip Vivaldi - rooftop pool and free breakfast; junior suite with seaside view and balcony for 160€/night
Traveling in a pair: The Valley - boutique hotel with free breakfast and outdoor swimming pool for 135€/night
Traveling alone: Hostel Malti - facilities include rooftop terrace and jacuzzi; double bedroom with private bathroom for ~75€/night
Sliema
Budget-friendly:
Traveling with kids/in a group: Nautilus Boutique Townhouse - superior quadruple room with private bathroom for ~90€/night
Traveling in a pair: The Seafront Tower - twin (double) room with seaside view for ~75€/night
Traveling alone: Hostel Jones - dorms come with ensuite bathrooms and a shared kitchen area; mixed dorms starting at ~15€/night
Glitzy:
Traveling with kids/in a group: Hotel Marina - swimming pool and free breakfast served on rooftop terrace; quadruple room with seaside view and private bathroom for ~150€/night
Traveling in a pair: Hotel 1926 - offers heated swimming pool, sauna and hammam; premium suite with double bed, rainshower and seaside view for ~180€/night
Traveling alone: Plaza Regency Hotel - includes free English breakfast, two swimming pools and two restaurants; standard twin (single) room for ~77€/night
Mellieha
Budget-friendly:
Traveling with kids/in a group: Merill Apartments - Equipped with swimming pool, BBQ area and fully-functional kitchen; 3-4 bed apartments for ~115€/night
Traveling in a pair: DB Seabank Resort & Spa - all-inclusive hotel with indoor and outdoor pools and hot tub; deluxe double bedroom with seaview for ~185€/night
Traveling alone: Honestly consider staying elsewhere or renting a place on AirBnB
Glitzy:
Traveling with kids/in a group: Maritim Antonine Hotel - offers rooftop pool and spa plus 3 restaurants; family junior suite for ~200€/night
Traveling in a pair: DB Seabank Resort & Spa - all-inclusive hotel with indoor and outdoor pools and hot tub; deluxe double bedroom with terrace and seaside view for ~195€/night
Traveling alone: DB Seabank Resort & Spa - all-inclusive hotel with indoor and outdoor pools and hot tub; deluxe twin (single) bedroom for ~140€/night
No matter where you stay there’s bound to be something for everyone’s price point and comfort.
The lookout from the former site of Calypso’s Cave.
Destinations
Next up are the must-see destinations that you can’t afford to miss out on and two smaller islands positioned to the northwest of the main island named Comino and Gozo are definitely at the top of the list.
Compared to Malta, Gozo is known for having better beaches mostly because the larger island is enclosed by rocky coasts as opposed to soft, sandy shorelines. Comino has a similar mix of both though, beware, some of the more popular locations can feature droves of other tourists basically wedged onto the smallest strip of earth. It might be worth it for the famed crystal clear waters surrounding the nearly uninhabited isle (Comino has a population of less than ten people!) but if you’re pressed for time I would highly recommend renting a quad-bike in Gozo instead and taking it around to different hidden gems at your own pace. Depending on your preferences here are some shores to consider:
Gozo
Maraslforn Beach
Ramla Beach
San Blas Bay
Calypso’s Cave*
Comino
Saint Marija Beach
Saint Niklaw Bay
Blue Lagoon
*Not sure when was the last time the Malta tourism page was updated but, although this site is listed as an attraction, please note that it has been closed for many years due to the hazardous pathway necessary to reach it. Don’t waste your time visiting it like I did though the view from the lookout is gorgeous (see above picture).
The only beach in the capital of Valletta.
Valletta, besides being the capital of the country, is also a great place to visit if only for its beautiful architecture and decadent restaurants and shopping. While I wouldn’t recommend staying in the neighbourhood (being the capital things shut down pretty early), it is definitely worth seeing as its located only a few minutes’ drive away from Sliema and St. Julian’s. We managed to stumble upon the only “beach” in the city and got some unexpectedly incredible shots.
Transportation
Another reason I had chosen Malta over Cyprus, even though they both had similar weather and renowned beaches, was the well-known ease of getting around the former. Cyprus is about three times the size of Malta and often requires a car to get around (once again, I only have a license to kill cucarachas) while the smaller island nation had an affordably reliable transport system that went to nearly every place imaginable between the three sister islands. There are several options for their Travel Cards as well, depending on a traveler’s needs:
1.50€/ride in winter, 2€/ride in summer, 3€/ride at night
12€/15 trips (if you know you’ll only travel so much; it’s also shareable)
19€ Valletta card (allows trips to and from the capital and access to some museums)
15€ (children)/21€ adults Explore Card (valid for 7 days and includes unlimited rides in Gozo but it’s unshareable)
39€ ExplorePlus Card (includes two Valletta ferry trips, and either a boat trip to Comino or hop-on-hop-off bus option; also valid for 7 days)
Site of the former Azure Window, Gozo.
I would strongly suggest getting option number two as we made the mistake of going for the Explore Card which ended up costing us more in the long run as we only used about two journeys per day. Same thing would’ve happened with the ExplorePlus Card as the offered values of the ferries are much higher than just buying them directly from their respective travel agencies and the hop-on-hop-off bus was only necessary if you had no idea where else to go (as this path could take hours around the island).
However, if you do decide to get either of the last two then be certain not to get caught sharing it with anyone else. When we purchased our travel cards just after landing at the convenience store in the airport (located just outside of the arrivals gate) the stony-faced cashier made sure to give us a grave warning about the hefty fine that was to come if so.
After that mild scare tactic, it was pretty easy to catch the bus to the city as Malta has Express Buses X1-X4, every one of which goes to a designated bay, and are by far the cheapest way to get around. The journey will vary between twenty to forty-five minutes to more popular accommodations, not taking into account possible traffic, but it’s an easy ride with usually plenty of legroom and baggage space.
The Express Bus only runs from 5:30AM to 11PM though, so if your flight arrives any later than it would probably best to take a taxi as general night routes are only available on public holidays or weekend nights. Usually a one-way drive into town is about 15-20€ and other fares are similarly fair-priced. Find the best form of transportation to suit your needs and get you to all your destinations because there are a lot of things to see and you wouldn’t want to miss out on any of the following attractions.
Attractions
Comino
Blue Lagoon - one of the most beautiful beaches
Saint Marija Bay - idyllic bay with nearby campsite
Crystal Bay - a cove with clear waters and dramatic cliffs only reachable by boat
Gozo
The Blue Hole - 7-meter dive site with underwater archway
(Former) Azure Window - a 28-metre natural archway that collapsed into the sea in 2017
Calypso’s Cave - the cave is no longer visitable but the viewpoint above overlooks Ramla Bay
Ta’Pinu - Roman Catholic basilica and national shrine
Marsalforn Sea Pans - 350-year-old promenade spanning over 3 km
Malta
M’dina - ancient former capital of the country
Ghar Lapsi - little rocky cove great for swimming
Spinola Bay - scenic boardwalk filled with restaurants
Balluta Bay - site of famed “LOVE” symbol
Popeye Village - film set leftover from 1980 musical production (entrance fee 15 euros which includes free photo, welcome punch and a postcard to send home)
Blue Grotto - cave system famous for its sea reflections and snorkeling opportunities
Ahrax Open Cave (also known as Coral Lagoon) - underwater cave system only reached by kayak
St. Peter’s Pool - a stunning natural swimming pool
St. John’s Co-Cathedral - 16th century baroque cathedral
Recommendations
Most places to go to will be located closer to the epicenter of nightlife in St. Julian’s, particularly a neighbourhood named Paceville, so anyone looking for a good time that won’t end before the sun comes up should look to this area and this list. For those who are more art-buffs or history-enthusiasts, there are also tons of museums to visit for more culturally-engaging activities. Check out the various venues listed, most of which are located in St. Julian’s unless otherwise stated:
Drink
Native Bar - high-energy bar with dance floor
The Thirsty Barber - 1920s style speakeasy bar
Saddles Bar - one of the oldest bars in St. Julian’s
Food
Medina - for those who want a classic-feel to their meal with a Maltese flair (M’dina)
Barracuda - seafood restaurant set in 18th century seaside villa
Legligin - Maltese food the way grandma used to make it (Valletta)
Museums
The National Museum of Archeology in Valletta - houses artifacts from as far as 5000BC
National Museum of Fine Arts in Valletta - filled with Medieval to contemporary Maltese artwork
Malta Maritime Museum in Vittoriosa - biggest mueum in the country
Dancing
Havana Club - large club with two dancefloors and usually no cover (reggaeton and hip hop)
Sky Club Malta - club with amazing sound system (electronic music)
Uno Village - open-air club with Malta’s hugest dancefloors (pop music)
I know that all of this is a lot of information to take in but that being said, Malta as a country is pretty easy to navigate with friendly enough locals and an easy-to-manage transport system that readily gives access to the nation’s various coastlines, historic sites and hidden gems scattered throughout the island. Whatever your interests and budget, I hope this guide helps you on your next Maltese holiday and that you get to explore the country and its sister islands to the fullest. Write me when you get there!
May you get lost in the wonder,
M