Ever been to an underwater lake? Are you already in Mallorca, one of Spain’s Balearic Islands to its east? A sister island to the famous Ibiza, Mallorca is gorgeous in its own right, filled with kilometers of crystalline waters and pristine shores perfect for sunbathing.
Better yet, Mallorca has many stunning natural features such as caves with underwater lakes open to tourists nearly year-round. Considered just as beautiful yet less crowded than Ibiza, Mallorca is a beach-lover’s paradise and has several port towns all around its coasts for boat enthusiasts. The island also offers high-class shopping for those who yearn to shop until they drop along with copious entertainment venues open until late.
One very popular destination in Mallorca is Porto Cristo, a port town to the southeast of the island which has a beach near its city center. Porto Cristo is the ideal place to stay who would prefer to stay away from all the hustle and bustle of Palma, the island’s capital, while still having all the same amenities
It’s also home to Drach’s Caves, a large subterranean cavern with several water pools and a lake at its center. If you’re already in Mallorca and looking for more to do, Drach’s Caves is sure to be an unforgettable experience.
Let’s dig in!
The Legend
The Caves of Drach, also known as Coves del Drac in its native Catalan, is a sequence of four cavernous caves located on the east of Mallorca, one of Spain's 12 Balearic Islands. Situated just a stone’s throw away from the historic port town of Porto Cristo, the first mention of the caves’ existence comes from 1338 as since then, they’ve been named the Black Cave, the White Cave, the Cave of Luis Salvador, and the Cave of the French.
According to some researchers, the caves began to form back in the Miocene Epoch due to the ebb and flow of the Mediterranean Sea as the water forced its way through the entrance over millions of years. This occurrence led to the formation of four caves measuring nearly 1200 meters from end to end and at a depth of up to 35 meters below ground level.
More enchanting, the caves house an underground lake as well, named Martel Lake after a French explorer, Edouard-Alfred Martel (aka the founding father of speleology), who first discovered it. Although German explorer M.F. Will was able to previously map the White and Black Caves in 1880, it was Martel who stumbled across the last two caves along with the lake in 1896.
Since its discovery, the caves have become one of Mallorca’s most well-known landmarks, attracting thousands of visitors a year.
Rivers of crystal-clear water leading to the underground lake.
How to Get to Drach’s Caves
Managed to snag a solo pic despite the crowds!
Assuming you’re staying in Mallorca’s capital and central hub, Palma de Mallorca, it’s quite easy to get around the island in general thanks to the reliable public transportation system. As it is part of an archipelago, building a subterranean metro system would have been nearly impossible yet several train and bus routes snake across the island, connecting most of its largest cities and towns. In fact, you can cross the widest part of it by bus in less than an hour!
To get to Drach’s Caves from Palma, make your way to Palma’s Estacion Intermodal, perched next to Ferrocarril Station and across from Placa d’Espanya. Head in and down the escalators and, from there, you can ask any of the copious attendants where to find the bus that heads to Porto Cristo. Alternatively, you can head to the agent booth to the far right of the station for more information.
Well-lit walking paths within the caves.
While most Mallorcans can speak English (thanks, globalization), in case your agent can’t, make sure to ask, “¿Donde está el autobus hacía Porto Cristo?” (DON-deh est-AH ell ah-OO-toh-boos ah-see-ya Porto Cristo), and you should be pointed in the right direction. You can purchase your tickets directly from the bus driver but be certain to carry small bills or exact change (don’t expect change for anything bigger than a 10 euro note).
Once you board the bus, you can expect to be whisked away to the other side of the island in about an hour. You should try to listen out for the stop “Cuevas del Drach” or keep an eye on the bus’s announcement board, and then get off to find yourself just around the corner from the entrance to the caves.
Heads up: While the public transportation system in Mallorca is considered highly reliable, bus services are more limited during evenings and on weekends. The caves are only open to visitors in the morning to early afternoon, so you should plan to head out early anyway to beat traffic and the crowds.
Still, make sure to check the schedule at the bus station or at the bus stop for the times for the last bus back to Palma. The last thing you want is to be stuck far from your accommodation with no way back for the night!
You can find the most recent schedule times here. Alternatively, if you’ve rented a car (probably for the best when exploring an island as diverse as Mallorca, you can reach Drach’s Caves within around an hour by driving straight down Highway M-15 from the city center until you get to Manacor and follow the directions to Porto Cristo from there.
Touring the Caves
Scenic stairway for a photo op.
The four caves that make up las Cuevas del Drach are a glorious sight to behold, from their staggering size to the thousands of stalactites and stalagmites protruding down or up from the ceiling or floor, respectively.
Formed from eons of water and minerals dripping from the ceiling to the ground below, these clusters can be as long and sharp as spikes or grow to the size of mighty oaks. The caves are extensive, spanning at least a couple kilometers so I advise wearing comfy shoes. The walk is very easy but the caves are not accessible to those with reduced mobility, unfortunately.
Once you arrive at the entrance of the tourist attraction, you can buy tickets at the ticket office to the left.
Alternatively (and wisely), you can also buy your tickets online in advance, which is recommended as entrance tickets tend to sell out during high tourist seasons (we went during the height of COVID-19 in August 2020 and the lines were still packed!).
The tickets are also cheaper online than at the ticket office.
Current admissions rates are:
Adults: 15E (online) / 16E (box office)
Children (under 12): 8E (online) / 9E (box office)
Babies (under 3): Free
Mind you, each ticket sold has a specific entry time so take care not to miss your window! If you get there early enough, you’ll be one of the first people granted access to the caves when your time comes up.
Boats to take passengers across the underground lake.
Ticket in hand (or on your mobile), follow the signs to the entrance of the caves, and stand in line if necessary until it’s your turn to enter. Then, prepare to sink down into the depths of a subterranean wonderland of underground rivers, lakes, and jaw-dropping rock formations, millions of years in the making.
The paths you should follow are clearly marked with ropes and lights in all sections but you’ll also be able to see where some others wind off into the darkness of the massive cavern. Stay on the trail and you should still manage to snag some impressive pics if your camera has clear enough resolution. A little over halfway through* the caves and you´ll come to an underwater lake, la piéce de résistance.
There are rows of ascending seats to the left when you enter the lake´s cavern and I advise you to grab one at the front to truly enjoy the show ahead (We managed to get in the 4th row!). All the lights are then shut off, plunging the room into perpetual darkness where the only sound is the lake´s water rippling against the edge of the auditorium´s platform.
Almost magically, musical notes begin to fill the air as a trio of boats floats into sight, laden with fairy lights that give them an ethereal glow. Each carries a quartet of black-clad musicians playing classical instruments and they continue serenading the crowd as suited rowers propel them ever closer in a loop around the lake. It seems just as quickly as they come, they leave again, disappearing down the far end of the cavern as the last notes of the symphony echo in the air hauntingly.
The exit of the caves.
All in all, the aquatic orchestra lasts about 10 minutes but is definitely worth the time (it's compulsory either way so you might as well enjoy it). Absolutely no filming or photography is allowed during the show and there are several attendants among the audience to ensure this (the girl in front of me got reprimanded for trying anyway although they literally announced it in NINE languages).
After the concert, you´ll be escorted out of the area with the rest of the crowd to continue the second half of the tour. However, you have the option to exit the cavern on foot via a walkway to the right or cross it by boat (the latter is definitely the way to go!) although the line for the boat ride can get a little long.
In total, the entire tour lasts between 40 minutes to an hour, at the end of which you´ll be led up a flight of stairs to the exit on the other side of the attraction. Feel free to then stop by the gift store or grab a bite to eat at the restaurant before leaving the area to put a perfect bow on the day. You can find the bus stop to return to Palma just across the street and slightly down the road from where you got off in the first place.
BONUS TIP: If you have extra time, just a stone's throw away is Cala Escondida, a hidden spring whose crystal clear waters are begging to be swum in. Spend the rest of the day splashing around there or continue on to Porto Cristo, which is a charming port town in its own right. Either way, you´re sure to be pleased!
The view from above Cala Escondida.
Where to Stay in Palma
Palma, the capital of the island, is chock full of accommodation options, from the low-cost to the ritzy. No matter your budget, you´re bound to find something that doesn't break the bank.
Best budget option
Hostal Atlanta
While this hostal isn't quite located in the city center (it's in Arenal to the east), it's only a few meters from the closest sandy coast, making it perfect for a beach vacay. It's also your best bet if traveling in a large group as it's one of the only lodgings to offer both private rooms and dorms.
Best mid-range accommodation
Regina Hotel
This charming establishment is a mere two blocks from the central transportation hub where you'll get off the airport bus. With its tasteful decor and a terrace to sunbathe, you'll be wanting to stay an extra night.
Best boutique hotel
UR Palacio Avenida
This elegant hotel is housed inside of a once-famous cinema built in 1942 so the trimmings are as posh as the suites. This chic accommodation isn't even the most expensive place on the block and, situated near the Ferrocarril de Soler (an article for a different adventure), it's practically a steal for the price.
Where to Stay in Porto Cristo
Taking a pic with La Torre del Serral dels Falcons just outside Porto Cristo.
The other side of the island caters to those who do not mind spending a bit more to escape the hustle and bustle of more touristic areas. This aspect tends to be reflected in the prices so, while accommodation in Porto Cristo is a bit more expensive than in Palma, you’ll certainly get your money’s worth!
Best budget option
THB Felipe
Located on the waterfront, this wonderous adults-only resort sports both an indoor and outdoor pool as well as a spa that contains a hammam and a sauna. While you're there, why not upgrade to a suite with a balcony to have your breakfast with a view?
Best mid-range accommodation
Apartamentos PortoDrach
If you want a mix of glamor and affordability, you'd do well to stay in an apartment with all the modern conveniences to feel nearly like a homestay. At just a 10-minute walk from the beach and equipped with a community pool, they're the best bargain in town for your money.
Best beach resort
Sol i Vida
An adults-only resort that caters to those that don't mind splurging a little, housing a restaurant, snack bar, and terrace. They also offer a buffet breakfast and valet service to ensure all your needs are met from day one.
Final Thoughts
Can you spot Leuchtturm Lighthouse in the background?
While there are a plethora of things to do in Mallorca, as well as on its sister islands, Drach's Caves are a special treat for those in the area craving a little magic and mysticism. Moreover, there´s plenty to do and see in the area besides the caves such as swim in Cala Escondida, along with a few more sights down the coast when you walk from the caves to Porto Cristo. Look out for La Torre del Serral dels Falcons, a medieval tower built to monitor for invaders, or Leuchtturm Lighthouse, which offers a fantastic view of the Mallorcan coastline.
Whether you stay in Palma or Porto Cristo, the caves are easier to reach via public transportation so don't hesitate to check them out. You'll be glad you did!
May you get lost in the wonder,
M