The Basque Country is a lushly green region to the north of the Iberian peninsula famous for its scenic landscapes, great gastronomic scene, and stellar wine. Despite being wedged between Spain and France, the homeland of the Basque people managed to thrive in a veritable vacuum for centuries, developing its own unique language, culture, and traditions.
These days, the Basque Country is beloved for its picturesque villages, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Michelin-star restaurants, and excellent geographical location. Bordering the Bay of Biscay and the Pyrenees Mountains, the Spanish autonomous community is the perfect place for a nature retreat with a sophisticated twist. If you want to know the best places to visit in the Basque Country on your next holiday as well as the top attractions to see while there, this guide is just what you need!
The Legend
The Basque Country, known as ‘Euskal Herria’ in Basque or ‘Pais Vasvo’ in Spanish, has had a long, arduous, and often violent history written in blood, determination, and sacrifice. Strap in if you dare since this story’s certainly no fairytale (click here to skip the deep dive into thousands of years of struggle).
The Basque Country’s Humble Beginnings
Stretching back to the Paleolithic Era, the Basque territory once extended to encompass the French Basque Country and the neighboring Spanish community of Navarra, all the way up to the Iron Age. Ever wary of invasion, the Basques built their settlements deep in the mountains in protective fortifications that were easier to defend. Still, they often encountered Celtic people who also influenced their culture yet they managed to hold on to their proud heritage, infusing these new traditions into their own. In fact, the roots of their language are so shrouded in mystery that the origins of their regional language, Euskara, are still heavily debated as it has no known ties to any other dialect on Earth.
The Basque Country throughout the Middle Ages
While there’s evidence of Roman occupation in the area, the rugged terrain of the Basque Country and the iron will of its people made it unfavorable for extensive development outside of Pampolana (in modern-day Navarra), a situation that suited the rest of the Basque just fine. They even managed to retain much of their culture by the 5th century AD as the Franks took control of France to the north and the Visigoths in Spain to the south.
This occurrence placed the Basque Country square between two warring kingdoms who both sought to conquer the proud mountaineers. Decades of rebellions and uprisings would follow these conquests only to end in annexation as the region was divided into two halves to better oppress inhabitants, with the Southern Basque Country being incorporated into the Kingdom of Pamplona.
The Tale of One Basque Country
This is where Spain’s Basque Country’s story truly begins as the last bastion of their former stronghold but, due to this subjugation, its significance would begin to wane throughout the 11th and 12th centuries. However, this decline wouldn’t stop the Basque people from taking to the seas to discover new horizons as far as the Americas for the next several hundred years, including on Colombus’ journey in 1492. Thousands permanently resettled elsewhere to escape the ever-growing restrictions of the Spanish Monarchy. Nevertheless, many other Basque explorers eventually came back with riches from the New World to help keep the dream of their homeland alive.
Continued Unrest in the Southern Basque Country
Thus, it should be no surprise that minor and major disputes between the Basque and the centralized Spanish leadership dragged on for ages as the former strived for self-government, especially after it was granted to Catalonia in the 1930s. As political dissent and unrest continued to sow turmoil, the Spanish Civil War started to unravel, heralding the arrival of one of Spain’s darkest chapters.
Siding with Spanish Republicans against Francisco Franco’s Spanish Nationalists, Basque nationalists would feel the extent of the dictator’s discontent when, at his behest, the town of Gernika was bombarded by aerial explosives from Adolf Hilter and Benito Mussolini’s armed forces, killing hundreds. Tens of thousands more would flee the destruction and further persecution, never to return, while the rest would surrender and their heritage would be actively decimated under Franco’s totalitarian regime.
ETA’s Reign of Terror
By the 1960s, anti-Spanish sentiment had only compounded in the region, giving birth to Euskai Ta Askatasuma (translating to, ‘Basque Country and Freedom’), a far-left separatist organization that would go on to have paramilitary and terrorist ties. Even after Franco’s death in 1975 and the Basque Country gaining autonomy in 1979, the discord only ramped up for the next four decades as ETA staged the bombings, political assassinations, kidnappings, and murders of hundreds, with thousands more innocents wounded.
Peace and Prosperity in Present-Day Pais Vasco
Thankfully, ETA would disband by the 2010s but even during their reign of terror, the Basque Country had begun to enter an era of true peace once free of Franco’s tyranny. Unlike the French Basques who’d faced such ill-treatment that their population never truly recovered, Spanish Basques have managed to endure, even as Navarra became its own autonomous state.
With the Basque Country’s long-fought-for heritage now enshrined and protected by law, its people are once again free to speak their chosen language without impunity. Unity has allowed the region to turn its attention to promoting tourism, not terrorism, which brings the end of this saga full circle right back to you, my fellow wanderer.
5. Vitoria - The De Facto Capital
Located toward the south of the Basque, Vitoria (officially known as Vitoria-Gasteiz) should be your first stop as this quaint city was founded in 1181 and since then has been full of many charms from scenic squares to medieval monuments. Apart from being the capital of the autonomous community since 1980, it’s also home to the House of Parliament and the president's official residence and is frequently voted as one of the best places to live in Spain.
Due to Vitoria’s elevation high up in the mountains, the city often experiences cooler winters than lower coastal cities while summer tends to be as warm yet with cooler nights. Its proximity to the coast also means rainfall is quite common with the climate being humid year-round.
For famous its fascinating medieval architecture, Vitoria still sports many remnants from the 11th and 12th centuries when it was highly coveted by the enemy kingdoms of Navarre and Castilla, including defensive walls. With time, Gothic elements began gaining popularity in the 15th century while Neoclassical influences started to mix in the 19th century as the city grew. These inspirations are clear, particularly in the almond-shaped Old Quarter (sometimes referred to as Casco Viejo), where you can find a heady blend of architectural styles.
Vitoria is also celebrated for its world-class wineries, such as Ysios (which looks like something out of a fantasy) as well as several nearby ancient Neolithic ruins like La Chabola de la Hechicera (‘‘The Witch’s Hunt,’’ which still attracts local witches every August 15th). Whether you’re more into history, gastronomy, or sorcery, you’re sure to be enchanted with Vitoria!
FUN FACT: The official moniker, Vitoria-Gasteiz, is a compound name made from a combination of the city’s names in Spanish and Basque. It is often called one or the other, depending on the language of the speaker.
Top attractions:
Plaza de la Virgen Blanca - Vitoria’s central square in the heart of the Old Quarter
San Miguel Arcangel Church - a medieval church in Plaza Virgen Blanca with a portico depicting the virgin who is Vitoria’s patron saint
Plaza de España (AKA Plaza Nueva) - a stunning arcaded 18th-century square built to connect the Old Quarter to the expanding surroundings
Bendaña Palace - a 16th-century residence that now functions as the Fournier Playing Card Museum
Cathedral of Santa Maria (AKA Old Cathedral) - a 14th-century Gothic church and UNESCO World Heritage Site
Cathedral of Maria Inmaculada of Vitoria (AKA New Cathedral) - a 20th-century Neogothic church built on the ruins of a former convent)
Museum of Fine Arts of Álava - a Renaissance mansion-turned-museum with a wide collection of European Baroque and Renaissance artists
Basque Museum of Contemporary Art (AKA Artium Museum) - an incomparable gallery of Basque and Spanish masterpieces
Florida Park (AKA La Florida) - a 19th-century botanical garden that’s often used for cultural events
4. Zumaia - The Most Outstanding Beach Town
Along the dreamy coastline of Guipúzcoa Provence, you’ll find Zumaia, a seaside town perched where the Urola and Narrondo Rivers meet in the Bay of Biscane. The town’s main claims to fame are its two notable beaches, Santiago and Itzurun, both of which are of geological interest due to their unique characteristics.
The closest, Itzurun, features a 270-meter expanse of golden sand surrounded by 150-meter-high vertical limestone cliffs known as flysch, rock formations caused by erosion over the eons. The mesmerizing seafront is overlooked by the historic San Telmo Ermita Church from its perch on the cliff face and has even been featured on Game of Thrones as the backdrop for Dragonstone’s landing beach in Season 7.
A bit further away is Santiago, which stretches 350 meters long just past the marshlands encompassed by the Urola River’s estuary. This urban beach offers many facilities, including restrooms, showers, a playground as well as a scenic promenade that ends at a lighthouse. While Itzurun is more acclaimed for its millennia-old rock strata, it’s also subject to powerful waves and currents whereas Santiago’s calmer waters are much more family-friendly. Both locations are great for travelers into watersports such as surfing, windsurfing, canoeing, and scuba diving.
Zumaia is much more than just its beaches, however, and its Old Town is equally impressive, displaying a range of medieval and Gothic styles with plenty of architectural gems. The area has also welcomed several high-class restaurants specializing in seafood and Basque cuisine, making it the perfect place to grab a bite after a beach day. With winters typically being cold, wet, and windy, summer is the best time to visit to take advantage of all this coastal town.
FUN FACT: The rock strata at Itzurun Beach are some of the longest in the world, stretching for over 150 meters.
Top attractions:
San Telmo Sanctuary- a 16th-century church built to honor the patron saint of sailors
Zuloaga Museum (AKA Z Cultural Space) - the home-turned-museum of revered local artist Ignacio Zuloaga which houses artwork from other famous Spanish painters
Ubillos Palace - a 16th-century palace that now houses the Zumaia School of Music
San Pedro Church - a 13th-century Roman Catholic church that features many 16th-century Flemish triptychs
Zumaia Palace - a 15th-century palace erected for the once-powerful Ganboa family
Saint Mary of Arritokieta - a 16th-century hilltop sanctuary dedicated to the patron saint of Zumaia
Olazabal Palace - a 17th-century palace commissioned by Juan de Olazabal, secretary to King Felipe IV
Convent of San Joseph - a Carmelite convent established in the 17th century
Foronda Palace - a 20th-century residence built for the Marquis of Foronda
3. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe - A Fantasy Set Come to Life
Yet another Game of Thrones film set from Season 7 to add to the list, the island fortress of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe seems to be straight out of a fantasy novel. Situated in a remote location between the seaside towns of Bakio and Bermeo, the rocky island jutting out of the Bay of Biscay doubled for Dragonstone, the ancestral home to Daenerys Targaryen. While the show’s castle was CGI, the remarkable entryway is not, comprising a long stone staircase that bridges the islet to the mainland via 241 zig-zagging steps.
Translating to ‘‘castle rock,’’ the history of Gaztelugatxe stretches back to the 9th century when the first hermitage dedicated to John the Baptist was erected and, by the 12th century, it had become a convent. However, Gaztelugatxe was ultimately abandoned and looted of valuables by the 14th century and, since then, its legacy has been interwoven into pirate legends, mythological rituals, and historical battles, including being ransacked by Sir Francis Drake in the late 16th century.
Due to the chapel’s turbulent history among the roaring sea and clashing men, the original structure has had to be repaired and/or rebuilt several times since its initial inauguration. After once again catching fire in 1978 only to be destroyed, the current chapel was reconstructed in 1980 and these days still accepts votive offerings from sailors fortunate enough to have survived shipwrecks.
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe stands around 80 meters above sea level, providing unbeatable views of the Bay of Biscay with its rugged cliffs and thrashing waves. You’ll have to trek a bit through San Juan de Gaztelugatxe Nature Reserve to reach the island so make sure to wear comfortable shoes, especially for the hike up all those stairs. Once you get to the top, try to look out for the faint footprint on the last step, said (arguably) to have been left by John the Baptist himself.
FUN FACT: According to local legend, ringing the bell at the front of the church three times is thought to bring good luck and chase away evil spirits. I personally rang it nines times just to be safe.
Top Attractions:
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe Chapel
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe Observation Deck
Behatokia Observation Deck
2. Bilbao - A Cultural Metropolis
Although Vitoria is the official capital of the Basque Country, no one can deny that Bilbao is where its true power lies as the tenth-biggest city in Spain and the largest in the north of the country. Nestled between two mountain ranges where the Nervión River meets the sea, Bilbao has seen much economic development since it was founded in the 14th century thanks to its port’s strategic position. Its location also lends to frequent cloudy or rainy weather year-round, with July being the warmest and driest month.
Despite suffering many hardships over the centuries, including the French invasion under Napoleon, several sieges during the First, Second, and Third Carlist Wars, and copious bombings throughout the Spanish Civil War, Bilbao has endured. The area would only continue to industrialize throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, turning Bilbao into one of the main commercial hubs in the nation and one of the wealthiest cities to this day.
Bilbao’s tendency toward modernization even as many of its sectors have begun to move away from industrialization has also resulted in an increase in urban renewal, particularly among cultural and entertainment venues. In 1997, the city welcomed the world-class Bilbao Guggenheim Museum; the same year, the eye-catching Zubizuri (‘‘white bridge’’) spanned its way across the Nervion River; and in 2012, the Iberdrola Tower was inaugurated as the tallest skyscraper in the Basque Country.
Aside from the medieval architecture rampant dominating its Old Quarter (Casco Viejo) and the colorfully-painted buildings straddling both sides of the Nervion River, Bilbao is also beloved for its gastronomic scene, which is almost second to none. The city makes the perfect setting to take yourself on a walking tour through the most renowned gastro-bars, especially for their white wines and pintxos (tapa-like appetizers served on bread slices). Come for the sights and stay for the food as your taste buds will be sure to thank you.
FUN FACT: Bilbao is divided in half by the Nervion River into Casco Viejo and El Ensanche, which are connected by a series of nine glorious bridges.
Top Attractions:
Bilbao Guggenheim Museum - a state-of-the-art contemporary art museum with hundreds of works of art
Plaza Nueva - a 19th-century Neoclassical arcaded square that currently functions as the HQ for the Royal Academy for the Basque Language
Nervion River (AKA Bilbao Estuary) - the captivating body of water that splits Bilbao in half, with the Old Quarter on one side and the Ensanche on the other
Gran Via - the city’s main street lined with historic monuments, restaurants, and boutique shops
Mercado de la Ribera - one of the largest food markets in the nation and the perfect place for lunch
Santiago Cathedral of Bilbao - a 14th-century Gothic church dedicated to St. James of the fame St. James’ Way, a historic pilgrimage route
Church of Saint Anthony the Great - a 15th-century Gothic church that’s one of the oldest buildings in the city
Archanda Funicular - a 20th-century cable car that offers stunning views on its way to the top of Mount Archanda
Plaza Moyúa (AKA Plaza Elíptica) - one of Bilbao’s most majestic public squares
Bizkaia Bridge - the first and oldest working transporter bridge in the world
Iberdrola Tower - the highest skyscraper in the Basque Country, standing 165 meters tall with 40 stories
Doña Casilda Park - the largest green space in the city, named after the wealthy benefactor that donated its lands
Basque Museum of Bilbao - an extensive collection of Basque artifacts housed in a Baroque complex
Fine Arts Museum of Bilbao - one of the most prestigious art collections in Spain with thousands of works of art from across several periods
Basilica of Begoña - a 16th-century Gothic church in honor of the city’s patron saint
Arriaga Theater - a 19th-century Neo-baroque concert venue inspired by the Paris Opera House
Zubizuri (AKA Campo Valentin Bridge) - a unique arched footbridge that extends across the Bilbao Estuary
1. San Sebastian - A Seaside Gatronomic Powerhouse
Last on this list but, certainly, not least is San Sebastian, the Basque Country’s crown jewel that is lauded for its natural beauty and chic international vibe. Like the region’s capital, its official moniker is a compound name haling from its Spanish and Basque heritage, Donostia-San Sebastian. Both names are derived from a former monastery in the area dedicated to San Sebastian and they stuck once the city was founded by King Sancho the Wise of Navarra in the 12th century.
Positioned on the banks of the Cantabria Sea, San Sebastian is home to plenty of beautiful beaches such as La Concha Beach, which spans over a kilometer and is undoubtedly the most famous for its location right in the heart of the city. However, be prepared to pack an umbrella as San Sebastian is also one of the wettest cities in Spain, experiencing frequent rainfall year-round, especially in autumn. Daily humidity levels hover around 70-80%, making for damp winters and muggy summers, and it’s not rare to see the beaches covered in snow when temperatures drop.
Still, don’t let the soggy weather put you off as it’s the only drawback to visiting this coastal city whose vibrant atmosphere as well as mouthwatering cuisine have helped set it apart. The city hosts many music and film festivals such as the San Sebastian Jazz Festival (in July), San Sebastian International Fireworks Competition (in August), San Sebastian International Film Festival (in September), and San Sebastian Musical Fortnight (which actually lasts about a month of summer). Albeit, the biggest festivals have to be Tamborrado which honors the city’s patron saint every January 20, or Semana Grande around August 15.
For my fellow foodies, your palette is bound to be in for a treat since San Sebastian is also revered for its culinary scene, housing more Michelin-star restaurants than any other city in the world per capita. Gastronomic tourism has become one of the city’s main attractions, with several prominent Basque chefs opening Michelin-approved eateries throughout the city. Even if you can’t afford to splurge on high-end dining, you can organize a food tour around the various pintxo bars scattered around the Old Quarter, each offering a miniature masterpiece that’ll leave you clamoring for more.
FUN FACT: On par with Paris, San Sebastian is the only other city that holds the record for having three 3-star Michelin restaurants, the highest ranking.
Top Attractions:
La Concha Beach - an elegant urban beach with many outdoor facilities surrounded by turn-of-the-century architecture
Mount Urgull - a scenic hiking opportunity and heritage site that’s also the best place to watch the sunset
Miramar Palace - a 19th-century English Tudor estate that functioned as a summer home for the Spanish royal family
San Telmo Museum - a 16th-century convent-turned-museum with an eclectic collection of fine art and archeological relics
Victoria Eugenia Theater - a prestigious theatre that was opened in 1912 and functioned as the original venue for the San Sebastian Film Festival until 1999
San Sebastian Aquarium - one of the first of its kind in Europe, dedicated to studying marine life; its Oceanarium is not to be missed
Plaza de la Constitution - the city’s main square that once was used for bullfighting
Basilica of Santa Maria del Coro - a gorgeous 18th-century Baroque church built on the ruins of an ancient Roman temple
Mercado de la Bretxa - a 19th-century food market and commercial center
San Vincent Church - the city’s oldest church, erected in the late-16th century
La Zurriola Beach - a nudist beach that’s also great for surfing due to its strong waves
Ondarreta Beach - the smallest urban beach that’s just 500 meters from Santa Clara Island at low tide
Santa Clara Island - a lush islet located off the shore of the Cantabria accessible in summer by boat or swimming
Mugaritz - a fine-dining restaurant established in 2006 that’s considered one of the best in the world
Aiete Park - a 19th-century estate-turned-public-park that’s an idyllic place for picnics in summer
Final Thoughts
The Spanish Basque Country boasts many cultural traditions and customs that have enriched its history down to its cuisine, music, and artworks. While the often rainy weather might factor into any excursion, you can still choose from many indoor activities like visiting world-famous museums or breathtaking palaces. When the Weather Gods are willing, there are also a plethora of outdoor activities on offer, such as going on gastronomic tours, hiking through the verdant countryside, and sunbathing at pristine, golden-sanded beaches. Games of Thrones fans will also be delighted to explore some of the TV shows most famous sets.
Like most Spaniards, the Basque are friendly people who hold a deep pride in their hard-fought legacy as one of the oldest ethnic groups in Europe. Therefore, always aim to be respectful of the differences between their ancestral past and that of their fellow countrymen (like don’t mention ETA at all). You’re likely to hear people speaking Basque amongst friends while in public but no one will expect you to be able to respond in kind. Speaking castellano (AKA Spanish) is definitely a bonus but many service workers in the tourism industry also speak English.
Given that the Basque Country only takes up less than 2% of Spain’s total continental area, the area is best explored by car to zip between locations since it's the easiest way to explore smaller villages like Gernika (rebuilt after suffering a devastating bombing during the Spanish Civil War). With Bilbao, San Sebastian, and Vitoria about an hour’s drive away from each other, it’s faster to location-hop on four wheels than using public transportation (just look at the castle we stumbled upon above). Stay in San Sebastian if you want to lap it up in luxury or in Bilbao to soak up some cultural sophistication and make sure to take some boat rides along the coast, with one highlight being the boat tour down Bilbao’s Nervion River. No matter what draws you to the Basque Country, be it its unrivaled culinary scene, jaw-dropping seascapes, or untamed natural beauty, your trip is sure to be magical. Write me when you get there!
May you get lost in the wonder,
M