As a Canadian who didn’t start skiing until well into her twenties, let’s just say that the learning curve was high but it was a challenge my northern pride simply couldn’t let me pass up. Thankfully, Spain is the second-most mountainous country in Europe, meaning there are plenty of ski resorts where you can find your ski legs.
If you’ve always wanted to become a snow bunny, Sierra Nevada in Andalucia is the best place to learn to ski or snowboard in Spain for multiple reasons. From the affordability of ski gear rental to the ease of arriving there via public transportation, the charming ski town has every amenity you’ll need for the perfect winter getaway. There are also several ski schools where you can seek some proper instruction as well as plenty of restaurants, bars, and shops to keep you fueled up between ski runs.
For the ultimate guide to skiing in the Sierra Nevada and the best places to eat and drink there, here’s everything you could ever want to know for your next ski trip. Let’s hit the slopes!
The Legend
Sierra Nevada is a large mountain system in the south of the Iberian peninsula whose name translates to ‘snowy mountain range.’ Situated in the Andalucian province of Granada, it stands as the highest peak in continental Spain, reaching up to nearly 3500 meters above sea level. As part of Sierra Nevada National Park, the biosphere reserve encompasses Sierra Nevada Ski Station, the southernmost ski resort in Europe and the highest in Spain.
Thus, Sierra Nevada’s elevation and proximity to Spain’s Costa del Sol, home to some of the country’s most beautiful beaches, makes it the perfect place to go for a winter holiday. Said to be one of the only places in the world where you can ski and swim on the same day, temperatures on the snow-capped mountains are typically 10-15 degrees colder than in the regions near their bases so make sure to bundle up!
Often enjoying sunny Mediterranean weather year-round, Sierra Nevada has become a popular destination as it has some of Spain’s best ski slopes, with plenty of difficulty categories for skiers of all levels. The ski town also offers travelers lots of amenities in regard to ski schools with competent instructors, and many of these lessons come with the ski gear provided for the rest of the day. If you’d rather skip the ski lesson, there are a bunch of ski shops selling or renting second-hand apparel and equipment in the middle of town, meaning you’ll be able to suit up and go up the ski station’s summit in a jiff.
Moreover, purchasing ski passes tends to be much cheaper than in other parts of Europe, especially when compared to skiing in the Alps or the Pyrenees. The overall priciness of skiing, when factoring in the cost of transportation, accommodation, and ski rentals, can put many travelers off, but Andalucia is one of the most affordable regions in Spain. For those who’ve always been interested in taking up the winter sport yet are hesitant about sinking cash into a new hobby, Sierra Nevada is the best place to get more value for money.
How to Get to Sierra Nevada
Depending on where you’re arriving from, you can reach Sierra Nevada in multiple ways. Located about 30 kilometers outside of Granada, the region is well-connected to most of Spain’s major cities via public transportation such as domestic flights, high-speed railway lines, and coach buses. Visitors can also choose to arrive by car and many lodgings provide guests with on-site parking.
Regardless if you plan to get to Sierra Nevada by plane, train or automobile, there are plenty of travel options to suit make the journey easier.
By Plane
For domestic and international travelers, Granada boasts Federico Garcia Lorca Granada-Jaén Airport, an international airport just a few kilometers to its west. National airlines such as Iberia, Air Europa, and Vueling offer several flights to make connections easier for tourists stopping over in major cities like Madrid or Barcelona. Domestic flight tickets are normally quite well-priced, especially if bought at least a month in advance.
From Granada Airport, you can hire a taxi to take you directly to Sierra Nevada, a journey of around an hour. However, this option can cost upwards of 60-80€ so it’s better for larger groups who can share the expense. Alternatively, you can also book a private shuttle bus, particularly when traveling with lots of baggage.
For more frugal travelers, the cheapest way to Sierra Nevada is also the most time-consuming. This route involves taking the airport transfer bus into the city center, about a 40-minute trip for 3-5€ then making your way to Granada Bus Station to catch the coach bus to Sierra Nevada. The coach bus runs on a limited timetable, especially during weekdays, so making this connection could be tight depending on when your flight lands.
By Train
Besides the international airport, another major transport hub is Granada Railway Station, right in the city center. The train station is well-connected to Spain’s other larger cities along with smaller provincial towns throughout Granada, meaning it’ll be easy to hit the beach once you’re all done skiing.
From the train station, you can take the local tram, Line 1, north about 10 minutes to Granada Bus Station, with fare costing around 1-2€. At the bus station, you can purchase a ticket for the bus directly to Sierra Nevada, Just make sure to check the buses’ timetable in advance as service is limited and they only run more frequently on weekends.
By Bus
For the most budget-friendly way to reach Sierra Nevada, you can take a coach bus straight to Granada Bus Station. Bus operators like Alsa Bus have many routes to Granada departing from most major cities in the country, with journeys lasting anywhere between five-to-eight hours depending on the point of origin (if you’re coming from northern Spain, you can expect the travel time to be nearly double).
Once at the bus station, you can transfer to the direct coach bus to Sierra Nevada, which is connected to Granada via bus operator Autocares Tocina’s fleet. I highly recommend that you purchase your ticket online in advance since seats quickly fill up during high ski season, especially during weekends, with round-trip fares being cheaper than two single-way tickets (about 9-10€ in total). The coach buses are generally clean with plenty of legroom and undercarriage storage in case you plan to travel with any ski gear. For a detailed timetable, check here.
From there, you can expect the bus ride to last about 45 minutes to an hour, depending on traffic, before letting you off at Sierra Nevada Bus Station, a parking lot just on the outskirts of the small ski town.
By Car
The fastest way to get to Granada is by car and many car rental agencies operate right out of Granada Airport if arriving by plane. If you already have a car, you’ll have to make your way to Granada and then prepare to drive up into the mountains where snow tires are the biggest prerequisite. The last thing you want to happen is to have your car get stuck in the snow or, worse, start sliding back down the slippery terrain. If you’ve never driven in tick snowfall before, then it might be best to travel to Sierra Nevada by utilizing public transportation since the mountain roads tend to wind their way up alongside steep cliff drops.
Starting in Granada, you’ll need to take Highway A-395 all the way southeast for about 40 kilometers before you reach Sierra Nevada Ski Station, a drive of about 50 minutes. The main street into town is Andalucia Plaza which leads straight to the main square, Plaza de Pradollano. From there, you can find your way to your accommodation within just a few more minutes. In case your accommodation doesn’t come with free parking, Parking Las Sabinas or Parking Los Peñones are good options to leave the car overnight.
Where to Stay
A true ski town, Sierra Nevada abounds with accommodation options from ski lodges to Airbnbs and everything in between. However, it’s best to keep in mind that Sierra Nevada Ski Station is nestled at the base of a valley, with the rest of the ski town spreading out around it well into the slopes. Double-check the location of any lodging before you book since it could be much further up the mountain and, therefore, much harder to ascend to or descend from.
Lodging for Larger Travel Groups
For larger groups, apartment-style hotel suites might be the most logical choice to ensure that there’s enough space for everyone in your travel party. Most of these apartments come with all the mod cons, from central heating to fully-equipped kitchens, meaning you’ll always feel nice and cozy in your home away from home.
You can find many choices on websites such as Booking and some of the best apartments to be on the lookout for are Miramar Ski and Sierra Nevada Boabdill Apartments. We stayed at the former on my most recent trip, and the self-check-in process was easy, the apartment was immaculate, warm, and close to everything while the building also sported an indoor pool and free parking.
Most Opulent Accommodation for High Rollers
For travelers craving a bit more grandeur, there are copious luxury hotel chains, especially from Meliá Hotels which has two locations, Meliá Sierra Nevada and Meliá Sol y Nieve, just a stone’s throw away from the main ski lifts. Nearby there are many other high-end hotels like Maribel, Hotel El Lodge, Kenia Nevada, and Hotel Vincci Selección Rumayakiyya. Each locale provides unique facilities from indoor pools to full spas complete with saunas so check out their complete list of amenities before making your final decision.
Havens for Solo Travelers
For solo travelers, hostels and hostales (Spanish-style motels) are also common and a great way to save on accommodation. The best places to stay would be Sierra Nevada Youth Hostel and Hostel Yeti, which both host private rooms with ensuite bathrooms. These establishments also make skiing or snowboarding easier for their guests by offering lessons from their private instructors or by renting out gear so you won’t have to lug it back and forth to far-off rental shops. Their streamlined facilities are everything you could ask for to make the most of your time.
Best Options for Spendthrifts
If money is an object and you’d prefer to shell out as little as possible on digs, you can still choose from many low-to-mid-range hotels, particularly if you don’t plan to stay in much. Housing rentals in Sierra Nevada can easily get expensive as prices climb during high season so budget-conscious travelers should be glad to know that there are several options that won’t make you go broke.
For instance, Hotel Ziryab and Apartahotel Trevenque will give you the most bang for your bucket without sacrificing cleanliness or customer service, with both coming highly reviewed. For the tightest penny-pinchers, some respectable low-end options include Hotel Reino Nevado, Hotel Mont Blanc, and Hotel Nevasur but it has been noted by some customers that their rooms are a bit out-of-date. If you don’t mind some possible rust or dust, these are the best lodgings to avoid breaking the bank.
Where to Ski
Sierra Nevada has dozens of ski slopes and trails, all linked by a large network of ski lifts and gondolas that crisscross their way up the northwestern face of Veleta, one of the highest peaks in the country. While certain ski slopes can be quite intimidating, there are still plenty that would be appropriate for absolute beginners. The easiest routes start at green, next slightly harder slopes at blue, then more challenging runs at red, and finally the most death-defying trails at black (see map above for visual aid).
Sierra Nevada Ski Station is located in a valley known as Pradallano where you can ride in a gondola up to Borreguiles, the base camp for most ski lifts. Ski passes should be purchased online in advance to avoid price hikes during high ski season and the physical copies can be picked up from the kiosks also located in Pradallano. The full-day pass allows the user access to the ski slopes from 9 AM to 5 PM whereas half-day passes start after 1 PM, with the option to go night-skiing from 7 to 9 PM (if you dare).
Using the intricate system of staggered ski lifts to climb further up the mountain face, you’ll be treated to some of the best views in the region; just be aware that the farther upwards you go, the more difficult the ski runs tend to be. There are also some treadmill-propelled tunnels to ferry you up gentler slopes so you can practice in much easier areas before committing to a climb. Not to be left out, expert skiers will also be thrilled to be carried up by the lifts to heights of over three thousand meters above sea level and let off near the mountain’ summit from which they can ski down all the way back to Pradallano.
Still, feeling too nervous to test your luck on the slopes? Why not sign up for a ski lesson to ease your fears while making sure you stay in safe hands?
Best Ski Schools
Graciously, Sierra Nevada contains several ski schools with instructors available in both English and Spanish. Many of these institutes also have offers on discount websites such as Groupon, meaning your euros will stretch further. Most lessons need to be booked at least a day or two in advance during high season but are well worth the cost for the uninitiated.
For example, all of my skiing experience has come from trial and error over the years, which has also entailed many falls and wipeouts. Thankfully, these incidents have never resulted in serious injury (not even when I accidentally plowed into a kid in South Korea, yikes) but what I learned from crashing and burning you won’t have to suffer through with competent instruction. Lessons are usually priced at around 25-40€ for a 2-hour session with ski gear included (ski suits are usually extra though), with the option to try snowboarding instead.
Some of the best ski schools are Snowmotion, Cerogrados, Vabu, Lusa, and Spin Procenter, which have trained thousands of customers over the years. Howbeit, most of these intuitions only offer lessons in Spanish but in case no hablas español, there are the English Ski & Snowboard School and British Ski Center which provide guidance from native English instructors.
Even if you’re looking forward to taking up snowboarding rather than skiing, you can rest assured that there’ll be someone there to ensure your safety every slide of the way.
Best Rental Shops
Ski rental shops abound throughout Sierra Nevada, nearly as numerous as other establishments such as ski schools and restaurants. This fact makes snagging ski gear much more convenient than hauling it back and forth while traveling and prices tend to be quite reasonable. If you’ve never been skiing or snowboarding before, a full list of equipment comprises impermeable ski jackets and pants to keep out wind chill, thick gloves to ward off frostbite, UV-filtering goggles to avoid snow blindness as well as skis and poles for skiers, or a snowboard for snowboarders.
While you’re bound to break a sweat from physical exertion if you’re a friolera like me, you’ll want to make sure to wear as many layers as possible so that you don’t freeze during the endeavor. Snow blindness from the sunlight reflecting off all the snow and ice is also a real risk so don’t skimp out on getting decent ski goggles unless you want your eyes to get sunburned.
My preferred rental shop is Las Gondolas right next to the gondola entrance in Pradallano yet there are multiple other ski gear providers in the area. Some top choices are Blanca Nieve, and Sierra Nevada Adventure and Ski, which also allow customers to reserve their gear online before keeping it up in-store. Many ski rental services typically also provide storage lockers, meaning you can leave your change of clothes at the shop and retrieve them a the end of the day whenever you’re ready to return your gear. Rental fees are usually cheaper if the gear is rented for multiple days and you can take the equipment back to your accommodation overnight so you can head right to the slopes the next day, maximizing your time.
Where to Eat and Drink
Sierra Nevada is a lively ski town despite its intimate size so there’s no shortage of dining establishments to help satiate your hunger after an active day of skiing. There are also plenty of watering holes to make sure you’ll have enough alcohol to properly whet your whistle during Happy Hour and beyond. While food options tend to be more centered on popular dishes like pasta and hamburgers, you’re sure not to be disappointed.
Must-Try Spanish Fare
Restaurante La Antorcha - Trendiest diner for traditional food and wine
Terraza Tia Maria - The best place to dine with a view
Tito Tapas - A homey tapas bar with an extensive menu
Taberna La Bodeguita - A tapas spot boasting all types of Mediterranean fare
Best Burger Joints
Telesillia’s Burger - A colorful canteen serving typical bar fare
Burger La Muralla - A cozy restaurant specializing in eclectic burgers
Tastiest Surf and Turf
Restaurante La Mar Salá - A popular grill bar catering to meat and seafood lovers
Bar Restaurante Las Gondolas - A lodge-like bar with a large outdoor terrace
Bodega Casablanca - A laidback tavern with a range of grilled meat options
Restaurante La Muralla - Best steakhouse for perfectly-cooked prime rib
Fantastic Fondue Spots
La Fondue de Noa - A Swiss bistro offering the best fondue in town
Restaurante Little Morgan - A hip burger joint with a large variety of plates
Idyllic Italian Bistros
Restaurante Tito Luigi - A quaint eatery with delicious pizzas and pasta
Surfin Restaurant - An upmarket establishment that specializes in grilled meat
Restaurante Ci Vediamo - An upscale tavern esteemed for its traditional fare
Best Bustling Bars for Late-Night Drinks
Bar Esqui - A budget-friendly pub with a festive atmosphere
Sohmo Sierra Nevada - An trendy barroom that gets livelier the later it gets
Jaleo Pub-Gintoneria Sierra Nevada - The best bar in town for a creative cocktail
Shaka Aprés Ski - A well-known restaurant by day that turns into a buzzing dance club by night
Final Thoughts
Whether you identify as a skier or a snowboarder or have never been to a ski resort before, Sierra Nevada has something to offer all visitors. From world-class ski slopes to various shops catering to both seasoned ski bunnies and newbies, you won’t lack for anything in this charming ski town.
Along with numerous ski schools and plenty of ski rental agencies, most services are available right in the town center so you’ll never have to travel very far as long as you choose lodgings closer to the valley. Ski passes also grants access to ski lifts throughout the evening until about 9 PM so you can use them to get back to your accommodation quickly without too much hassle. There’s also a local bus that shuttles visitors up the mountain and runs until around 11 PM, all for the cost of about 2€.
Apart from several dining venues serving tasty cuisine, there are also lots of rowdy bars that stay open until late so you can be sure that you’ll find activities to keep you entertained even after the slopes shut down. Eating out can swiftly rack up your expenses, however, especially compared to the rest of the region since Sierra Nevada’s prices tend to reflect its prestigious reputation. Don’t be surprised to find menu items going for similar rates as those in major cities like Barcelona and Marbella so buy supplies at the local supermarkets instead if you’d rather scrimp than splurge a little. My favorite place for a quick bite is La Casita del Dulce, right in front of the gondola entrance, since they served delectable pastries that are easy to take on-the-go.
Thanks to comparable affordability, ample ski institutions, and vibrant nightlife, Sierra Nevada is one of the best places to ski in Spain regardless of your experience level so don’t let being a novice get in the way of your first ski holiday. You’ll be glad you took the leap (at least I hope so)!
May you get lost in the wonder,
M