Feeling like Cleopatra in all gold…
Ephesus is home to a literal world wonder and a mesmerizing sight to behold in its own right. The UNESCO World Heritage site is not to be missed if you’re already in Turkey since its classical beauty is nearly as enthralling as its nearly 6000 years of history. Located on the western coast of Asia Minor, this ancient city is a must for lovers of legends and mystery as the site is near a Wonder of the Ancient World, the Temple of Artemis.
If you want to know how to get to Ephesus and which sights to see while there, this guide is just for you! Besides the best things to do while in the area, I’ll detail exactly where to stay and where to eat while there since, like Cappadocia (another gorgeous destination), Ephesus should be high on your Turkish Holiday Bucket List.
Look no further for the ultimate itinerary for one of the best archeological sites in Turkey that’ll have you saying ‘‘çok güzel’’ (‘‘very beautiful’’) in no time.
The Legend
Ephesus was once one of the most important cities in Ancient Greece; so important that the former port city is mentioned several times in the New Testament of the Bible in the Book of Ephesians. It was founded in the 2nd BC during the Bronze Age by the Ionian prince Androklos who was looking to establish a new Greek settlement after leaving Athens upon the death of his father.
According to a prophecy told to him by the oracles of Delphi, a fish and a wild boar would eventually show him the way. It came true when, one day while Androklos was cooking fish over an open flame, a fish flew into some bushes close by, sparking a fire. As the fire flared, a wild boar ran out of the bushes, only to be caught and killed where Androklos would then build his new city.
Strolling down Marble Road at Ephesus
Ephesus would become the most crucial trading center in the Mediterranean due to its geographical location, causing several wars as its possession changed hands a multitude of times over the millennia. Even between territorial disputes, Ephesus maintained its importance; the city was visited by both Alexander the Great and Cleopatra during the Hellenistic Period; it became the capital of proconsular Asia under Roman rule; it was the second most prominent city in the Byzantine Empire after Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul); and, it was an essential naval base for the Ottomans who would eventually abandon the city in the 15th century.
The former great city, which at its peak was home to a quarter-million inhabitants, fell into ruin while the location of the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, was also lost. It wouldn’t be until the late-19th century that either would be discovered again thanks to the efforts of foreign excavators who would later shed light on the ruins and bring them worldwide recognition.
Currently, Ephesus lies in the district of Izmir just outside of Selçuk (pronounced ‘‘sell-chook’’), the base point for all trips to the well-preserved ruins. Renamed from Ayasulug in 1914, Selçuk is a charming town that’s flourished from the influx of tourism and is worth a visit in its own right.
How to Get To Ephesus
To get to Ephesus, you’ll have to first get to Selçuk, located about 3.8 km from the archeological site. There are several ways to get to Selçuk depending on your starting point and, if you’re already in Izmir, you can get there for less than the price of a cup of coffee.
From Istanbul
Istanbul is about over 600 km away from Selçuk so the most convenient way to get there is to fly into Izmir´s Adnan Menderes Airport. Last minutes tickets are often quite cheap but if you really want to save a few bucks, make sure to purchase your flight tickets at least a couple of weeks in advance.
You’ll most likely be flying out of Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (SAW) and the easiest way to get there would be via private airport transport shuttle that picks you up from your hotel. This option is the best choice for those traveling with a lot of luggage but it can be a bit pricy but not more than taking a taxi to the airport (definitely, don’t take a taxi to the airport!).
However, the cheapest and fastest way to get to SAW Airport is using the public airport shuttle, the Istanbul Havalimani. If staying around Taksim or Sultanahmet on Istanbul’s European side, catch the ferry from Kabataş Terminal or Eminönü Terminal, respectively, across the Bosphorus Strait to Kadiköy Terminal. The boat trip usually lasts about 20 minutes and when you exit the terminal, find the bus stop across the plaza just to your left. The bus fare is only payable in cash but the ride should cost less than 3€ and take about 45 minutes.
Directional sign at Izmir Airport
From Izmir
Whether you’re arriving from Istanbul or already traveling around Izmir, it’s a breeze to catch the metro to Selçuk but it’ll be all about your timing since connecting trains can be sporadic. Still, it’s quite easy to navigate the public transportation system in Turkey even if you don’t speak the language.
From Izmir Airport
Once you land at the airport, exit from the arrivals terminal and then cross the street to access the platform that leads to the train (also known locally as the IZBAN). If you get turned around, simply ask the next attendant you see, ‘‘Metro nerede?’’ (‘‘Where’s the metro?’’), to be pointed in the right direction.
Like most major cities in Turkish, you’ll need to get a regional public transport card (usually for about 1€). There’s a ticket booth just to the right of the metro entrance so you can purchase your Izmirkart from the ticket agent (who can also help you activate your card with your HES code if necessary), and load up your card.
Once you've made it past the metal detectors, you’ll have to go from the airport’s Adnan Menderes Train Station and then transfer to Tepeköy Train Station. Go to the platform to your right to head south and then wait until your train comes (marked ‘‘Tepeköy’’).
The platform for the train from Tepeköy to Selçuk
After about 20 minutes, exit the train at Tepeköy and wait on the same platform to make the connection to Selçuk. The train to Selçuk only comes every couple of hours so make sure to try to time your connection in advance if possible since the ride only takes about 25 minutes. Leave Selçuk Train Station to either catch a taxi to your accommodation or walk (Selçuk is small enough to get around on foot).
If coming only for a day trip, catch a 6-minute taxi straight to Ephesus (locally known as Efes) or walk about a half-hour to the site’s entrance. It’s a very scenic walk but mostly uphill so I would say to splurge for the taxi since it’ll only cost you between 20-50 Turkish Lira (2-5€) depending on your haggling skills. You can always walk on the way back if you’re up to it (I got an amazing motorbike ride home from my amazing tour guide!).
If you prefer to save cash and aren’t in any rush, you can also catch a minibus from Selçuk’s bus station but in the early morning, they don’t run as frequently. The bus ride takes about 10 minutes and shouldn’t cost more than 5 TL.
The Odeion at Ephesus
From Izmir Basmane Train Station
There’s a direct regional train that links Izmir Basmane Station to Selçuk Station. The train only passes through about every two hours so aim to be on time for the one you choose. The journey only takes around 80 minutes and once you arrive at Selçuk, you should be able to walk over to your lodgings (Selçuk is easy to navigate on foot) or hail a taxi from the train station.
Alternatively, you can use the IZBAN (the suburban trains) to get from Izmir's Alsancak Station to Selçuk but a transfer at Tepeköy Station is required. Check out the timetables ahead of time to figure out which route works better for you.
If you’re day-tripping to Selçuk from Izmir, wave down a taxi from the front of the station to take you directly to Ephesus. The journey is about 6 minutes and will only cost you about 20-50 TL depending on your ability to haggle. You can also reach Ephesus on foot except it takes about 30 minutes so it might be better to save your energy for the walk back. There’s also the possibility of taking a minibus from the bus station in Selçuk, which is the cheapest option but not necessarily the fastest depending on when the bus fills up.
What to See at Ephesus
Ephesus the Ancient City is open year-round from 8 AM to 6:30 PM and there are two entrances, the North Gate and the South Gate. The cobbled stones slope downward from north to south, making for an easier trek across the grounds, but I would recommend starting at the South Gate since it’s closer to some of the most well-preserved monuments.
Fair warning, however, the only public bathrooms in Ephesus are located at the North Gate. For travelers arriving from the south, you’ll have to pay to use the public bathrooms just outside of Ephesus (around 2 TL) so plan the route that best suits your needs.
Map of Ephesus (courtesy of ephesus.co)
Withal, I would highly advise arriving as early as possible if you would like to have the place to yourself since the site gets flooded with a lot of people closer to midday as the tourist buses roll in. General admission tickets cost about 120 TL but you can buy several add-ons such as an audio guide or entrance to sites only accessible by supplementary fees.
There are many landmarks to see in Ephesus, each more stunning than the last, and the city was once home to nearly 300,000 inhabitants so its scale alone is astonishing. You can easily spend the morning or afternoon wandering around the ruins to your heart’s content. Some sights to look out for are:
Harbor Road (500-meter street that ran between the harbor and the Grand Theatre)
Grand Theatre (an enormous amphitheater that could seat up to 25,000 spectators)
Marble Road (Ephesus’s former main street)
Library of Celsius (a library and tomb built for Gaius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus by his son, Galius Julius Aquila)
Heracles Gate (notice the reliefs of Heracles AKA Hercules on the pillars)
Temple of Hadrian (commissioned by Emperor Hadrian’s successor Antonio Pius)
Terraced Houses (where the Ephesian elites resided; cost an extra 45 TL to enter)
Temple of Domitian (dedicated to Emperor Domitian, a brutal ruler who is said to have exiled John the Apostle)
Odeion (a smaller amphitheater used for plays)
You can either explore on your own to snap some incredible pics or you can hire a local guide like I did (I scored a solo 4-hour tour for only 22 bucks!). Either way, you're sure to have a wondrous experience getting lost in time.
The Grand Theater at Ephesus
FUN FACT: Ephesus used to be right near the coast in ancient times (hence, Harbor Road) but over the centuries the bay dried up, leaving only marshlands behind. Now the coast lies about 10 km away.
Other SIGHTS NEAR Ephesus
If you’re planning to hang around Selçuk for a bit (as you should), the town is a charming place to be and filled with friendly locals. There are also a bunch more sights to see in the surrounding area so you’ll have plenty of activities to keep you entertained.
Ephesus Archeological Museum (30 TL)
Founded in 1964, this enthralling museum houses some of the best-kept sculptures and other artifacts uncovered at Ephesus. While there, don’t miss the 3-D video that simulates the layout of the ancient city so that visitors can visualize how the ruins must have looked centuries ago. Open from 8 AM – 7 PM in summer and 9 AM – 5:30 PM the rest of the year, you can find Ephesus Museum in the town's center, across the from main minibus terminal.
Basilica of Saint John (35 TL)
According to history, John the Apostle AKA Saint John was thought to have spent his remaining years in Ephesus and is buried on Ayosolug Hill. Famous for writing the Book of Revelations in the Bible and being one of Jesus’ twelve best buds, a few hundred years after his death a chapel was constructed over Saint John’s grave in the 4th century. It was turned into a majestic basilica by Emperor Justinian in the 6th century and ornamented with 10th-century frescoes. Saint John’s Basilica is about 4 km away from Selçuk, around a 50-minute walk or an 8-minute taxi ride.
Heracles’ Gate at Ephesus
House of the Virgin Mary (60 TL)
This Catholic shrine is devoted to the Holy Mother Mary, sire to the son of God, and is believed to be where she spent her last days. Apparently brought to Ephesus by John the Apostle a few years after the death of Jesus, the chapel was rediscovered in 1891 after a German nun had prophetic visions. The house has been visited by several popes and every year hundreds of travelers make the pilgrimage there on August 15th, the Assumption of Mary the Blessed Virgin. The House of the Virgin Mary is just over 9 km away from Selçuk (a hike of well over an hour) so it's best to haggle roundtrip fare with a taxi driver to get there.
Isa Bey Mosque (free)
Nestled on the outskirts of the Ayaslüg Hills near the Basilica of Saint John, this mosque was constructed in 1375, making it the oldest functioning mosque in Turkey. The mosque was erected under the Emir of Aydin, Isa Bey, by a Syrian architect and is a stunning example of Anatolian architecture. The building was constructed using stones and pillars from Ephesus and the Temple of Artemis and, unlike traditional mosques, the style is asymmetric with the doors and domes purposely misaligned. After falling into ruins, the museum was renovated in the 20th century and opened for visitors. Around 4 km away from Selçuk, you can either stroll about 45 minutes or take an 8-minute taxi ride.
Şirince Village (free)
This quaint village’s history stretches back to the 1st century when it was founded by early Christians fleeing from persecution. Once named ‘‘Cirkince’’ (meaning ‘‘ugly’’) to deter tourists from flooding in, the town was renamed Şirince (translating to ‘‘pretty’’) to reflect its beauty and was a Greek Orthodox village until 1924. It lies 7 km away from Selçuk (about a 20-minute drive) and is famous for its local grape and fruit wines. Visit Şirince if you want a taste of authentic Turkish-Greek culture frozen in the 1920s.
Temple of Artemis
Grotto of the Seven Sleepers (free)
The home of several religious myths, the Grotto of the Seven Sleepers is a cave system that was once a church carved into rock. According to legend, in 250 AD Emperor Trajan Decius decided to persecute seven early Christians who were hiding in the cave by sealing it up. For the next two centuries, the seven sleepers slumbered until an earthquake reopened the cave, allowing them to wake up and escape only to find that the world had drastically changed. Christianity had become the main religion in the Roman Empire so they lived the rest of their days in peace and, upon their deaths, were reburied in the Byzantine necropolis. Now a pilgrimage center for Christians and Muslims alike, you can visit their tombs for free. The cave is around 3 km away from Selçuk, about a half-hour walk uphill or a 7-minute taxi ride.
Pamucak Beach
This crescent-shaped beach is nestled at the delta of the Menderes River only a minutes away from Selçuk by car. Pamucak Beach is the perfect stop for a beach day and the coastal paradise is the ideal place for a leisurely swim. Cool off in the Aegean Sea or go horseback riding at sunset. If you’d rather just lie back on the sand, the beaches stretches for nearly 5 kilometers so there’s plenty of space for everyone.
Temple of Artemis (free)
Saving the best for last, one site that you can’t skip out on while in Ephesus are the ruins of the Temple of Artemis, one of the only remaining Seven Wonders of the Ancient World (the other one being the Pyramids). Also known as the Temple of Diana, it was once the only marble temple in the Ancient World and faced to the west as most other temples of Artemis.
Originally commissioned in the 6th century BC by the king of Lydia, Croesus, the temple was completely destroyed multiple times and only to be rebuilt until its final swan song in 401. Of the 127 marble columns the temple featured, only one remains as the majority of stones were repurposed for other buildings (like the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul). The Temple of Artemis rests about 1 km away from Selçuk, only about 15 minutes by walking, so make sure to check this world wonder off of your bucket list.
FUN FACT: A well-preserved Byzantine aqueduct runs through the middle of Selçuk, spanning along St. Jean Caddesi until it crosses the main road and continues down Inönü Caddesi. The aqueduct is also famous for being a nesting ground for storks from March to September.
Where to Stay in Selçuk
Best budget-friendly option: Ena Serenity Boutique Hotel
This small, family-run hotel is a short walk from Selçuk Train Station and offers clean, comfortable digs for the most affordable prices in town. The hotel even has a family room for those traveling with tots or in a group, and each room comes with AC and heating. Every morning a tasty Turkish breakfast is served on the rooftop restaurant for the perfect start to your day.
Classiest Hotel: No 10 Hotel
If you want to live in the lap of luxury while in Selçuk, you can’t do any better than this classy boutique hotel. Every suite is elegantly decorated and equipped with bathrobes and slippers along with AC and heating. The hotel also features a gorgeous garden where you can sample their buffet breakfast served up fresh and hot daily.
Daily breakfast at Ena Serenity Boutique Hotel
Most authentic accommodation: Homeros Pension
This eclectic guesthouse features a colorful lounge draped in vibrant carpets and linens, as well as a huge rooftop for panoramic views of the town. Situated right in the heart of Selçuk’s Old Town, the rooms are furnished with antiques to lend them an authentic Turkish feel. The guesthouse also houses a bar and restaurant from which they serve a scrumptious, free daily breakfast.
Best luxury hotel: Atilla's Getaway
Although this picturesque, villa-style getaway is 2 km from Selçuk, its remote location makes it the perfect hideout at the end of an adventurous day. Kick back in one of their cushy chill-out areas or take a dip in their spring water swimming pool to relax. Even if you're traveling alone, the hotel offers dorm rooms and camping options so there's room for every budget. Don't miss out on this place if you're looking for a slice of paradise while in Selçuk.
Where to Eat in Selçuk
Selçuk is full of restaurants and cafes where you can grab a quick bite to eat or have lunch in splendor. Regardless of your budget, you're likely to find a place that suits your tastes and most restaurants also have vegetarian- and vegan-friendly options for traveling herbivores. For celiacs, Turkish cuisine also has a lot of rice dishes so you'll have plenty to choose from.
Okumus Pita Restaurant
If you’ve never tried pide (basically Turkish pizza), you should stop at this diner for a bite or two. They specialize in serving up piping hot pizza dough topped with the ingredients of your choosing. You’re sure to leave feeling full and satisfied.
Maza Kitchen Restaurant
This dazzling restaurant specializes in delicious Aegan cuisine with a twist and infused with Ancient Greek influences. Dine on their rooftop terrace to have dinner with a view of the town or try a glass of their regional wines. Either way, your tastebuds are bound to be pleased.
Library of Celsius at Ephesus
Seckin Cigerci
If you’re craving to try authentic Turkish cuisine, you should head to this family-run restaurant that’s been open since 1956. The prices are more than reasonable for the quality of the food so grab a seat on the outdoor terrace before you dig in.
Nur Restaurant
This cozy restaurant serves up some of the tastiest BBQ in town and is situated just a few meters from Selçuk’s famous aqueduct. Eat on the outdoor terrace if you're yearning for Turkish food at affordable prices with a view.
Final Thoughts
Temple of Hadrian at Ephesus
Whether you head to Ephesus for a day trip or plan to stay a while in Selçuk, there’s plenty to see and do around this charming town. From ticking Wonders of the Ancient World off your travel bucket list to retracing the Virgin Mary’s last steps, you’ll have more than enough activities to keep you entertained.
If in town near the weekend, make sure to check out Selçuk’s Friday street market for the best bargains. The wares are exactly what you’d find at the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul but for a fraction of the price. Just don’t forget to snag a couple of souvenirs for your friends and family!
May you get lost in the wonder,
M