Looking out onto the end of the world…
Travel to the end of the world (or at least continental Europe) when you head to the mesmerizing Cape Finisterre in northwestern Spain. Its jaw-dropping cliffs and bright blue waters are a sight to behold whose magic shouldn’t be overlooked for a myriad of reasons so come reflect over the Atlantic ocean as it expands out endlessly from Galicia's Costa da Morte. This stretch of coast is well-known for the various shipwrecks that line its ocean floor but also for Finisterre, locally called Fisterra in Gallego, the regional dialect. Translated from Latin (Finis-terrae), this moniker means "Land's End" and has stuck since the area was first discovered by the Romans on their march across the Iberian peninsula over 2000 years ago.
Finisterre’s Plaza de Santa Cantalina
From then on, it was considered the end of the known world and would be viewed as such until another Italian sailed across the Atlantic thousands of years later at the behest of the Spanish monarchy in 1492. The Romans were a bit off in their calculations, however, since Finisterre is only the third most western part of Europe after Cabo da Roca in Portugal and Cabo Touriñàn, less than 30 kilometers north of Finisterre.
Finisterre has a long history as an ancient port and fishing village first established by the Celtiberians before the region was eventually conquered by various civilizations over time. It even became a sacred site after the discovery of the body of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela and, since then, tens of thousands of travelers per year replicate his religious pilgrimage on foot. Their paths take them down what is colloquially referred to as El Camino de Santiago (The Way of Saint James), a voyage of over 90 km.
View from Finisterre’s port
There are actually several routes that extend from various parts of the Iberian Peninsula but one of the most popular is the French Way, connecting from southeastern France to northwestern Spain. It's a journey that spans nearly 800 kilometers, typically ending in Santiago, however, many often continue on Finisterre, which has become El Camino's new unofficial ending.
Finisterre is certainly worth the journey but you don't have to travel by foot if you don't want to. There are several ways to see the End of The World without breaking a sweat or breaking the bank, depending on where you're staying in Galicia.
Striking a pose at one of Cape Finisterre’s lookouts
How To Get There
Bus stop on Rua Federico Avila
Either the cities of La Coruña to the north of Finisterre or Santiago de Compostela to the east make the best starting points. They're the biggest cities near Finisterre and each boast a rich culture and history. Both also have international airports you can easily fly into if coming from abroad. Other large cities in the area are not as well-connected and don’t have bus service available directly to Finisterre. You could always rent a car and arrive there in a couple hours from anywhere in Galicia. There are also several places to stay in the area that come in a wide variety of price ranges to suit any budget.
From La Coruña
La Coruña is a port town that once served as the capital for the Kingdom of Galicia from the 16th to 19th centuries yet its history takes back to the pre-Roman pagan Celtiberians. The bus between La Coruña and Finisterre takes 2h15 and has 3 other stops, including Cee, another scenic beach town. You can catch the bus at the Estación de Autobuses in La Coruña, which should then drop you off not too far from Finisterre's Plaza de Santa Catalina. The bus is modern with spacious seats and air-conditioning so you rest assured you'll be riding comfortably for the duration of the trip. The last bus to La Coruña leaves around 17-18h00 (5-6 PM) so make sure you're on it unless you plan to sleepover!
From Santiago de Compostela
We stayed in Santiago de Compostela even though it's a bit more inland since it's one of the most picturesque cities in Spain. You can luck out and get a convenient 1-hour Blablacar directly there like I did or rent a car and drive for a little over an hour.
View from the window-seat on the bus back to Santiago
Alternatively, you can take a bus there and back but it's a 3-hour trip each way. Don't worry about being bored on the trip, however, as the bus route takes you all along the coast for the first couple hours before heading inland for the last stretch. Some stops include the quaint seaside towns of O Pindo, Louro and Esteiro. The bus can be taken from the Estación de Autobuses in Santiago which will drop you off one street over from Finisterre's Plaza de Santa Cantalina. Tickets back can only be purchased from the bus driver so make sure to arrive at the bus stop early as there may be a line to board.
Fortunately, we were only a handful of people when I had to make way back to Santiago after a day trip to the area. I could sit all to myself and was happy to find that the bus had spacious seats, window curtains and air-conditioning. You won't have to worry about leg room and can rest up for an exciting day at the end of the world! Just make sure your back before 6PM to catch the last bus back to Santiago.
View near Cape Finisterre’s Lighthouse
What To See
Camino de Santiago Pilgrims Memorial
Finisterre is a cute town but isn't too big that you can't see it all in one day or spend a weekend relaxing by the coast. There are a couple beaches that are not too far from the town's center, such as Praia da Ribeira or Praia do Corveiro, Alternatively, you can walk to the north of the town to find Praia da Langosteira, the biggest beach on the cape. It's quite popular with the locals so don't be surprised to find it a bit packed on a summer weekend morning but it's definitely worth swimming in its crystal clear waters.
For some more privacy, you can try hiking to Praia de Mar de Fora, located on the directly opposite side of the cape from Finisterre to the west. Stay until evening to watch the sun go down from the beach's fine, white sand over the Atlantic Ocean and marvel at the splendor of the colors along the horizon.
Some decorations around Cape Finisterre
Still, the real draw here is Cape Finisterre, which is the actual end of the peninsula and continental Europe. It takes about 30-45 minutes to trek up to the scenic Monte Facho or, in case you rented a car, another 10 minutes up the pavement along a curvy path. If you decide to go up on foot, make sure to help an eye out for Camino de Santiago Pilgrims Memorial, a statue of pilgrimager erected to honor the countless voyagers who undertake the journey toward Cape Finisterre.
There you can find the (technically third) most western part of continental Europe. Near the parking lot, there are also a few gift shops to buy souvenirs along with public restrooms while you'll find a hotel, restaurants as well as the Finisterre Lighthouse when you continue forward. Don't forget to check out the massive cross just to the left of the entrance parking lot or the small lookout area to the left side of the monument get a breathtaking view.
Cape Finisterre’s Lighthouse
When you've had your fill with this area, continue forward until you pass the restrooms and gift shops. You should be able to see the lighthouse right in front of you that was built in 1853. Keep an eye out for all the dolphin statues around the area and then try to spot some in the water if the conditionals are just right.
Moreover, make sure to look out for a set of descending steps to the left of the lighthouse. This pathway leads to the end of the cape and the beginning of the Atlantic Ocean, where can find two other notable monuments. The first is a bronze hiking boot to the right that is supposed to represent the weary pilgrims at the end of their journeys. The second is another cross further down the cape to denote the most southern point of the peninsula. Make sure to snag some photos of the breathtaking scenery which stretches out in blue waves as far as the eye can see. You've officially arrived at one of the most historically significant points in Europe as well as one of the furthest, the end of the world. Just don't fall from the cliffs as there's no more land after this point until you hit North America and it's bound to be a long swim.
Social-distancing with my mask and the famed bronzed hiker’s boot
Where To Eat
There's a restaurant called O'Refuxio Bar at the top of Cape Finisterre just before you reach the lighthouse. Its food is typically local bar grub plus some popular Spanish dishes. The restaurant offers a stunning view of the surrounding coast from its elevated perch on the cape but that's what you'll essentially be paying out the nose for as the menu is a bit pricey (especially for Spain). If you're feeling more budget-conscious, it might be better to wait to head back to Finisterre to get your grub on.
Quaint little cafe in Finisterre
Off the main road where the bus drops you off (Rua Federico Avila), if you continue down and to the right on Paseo Ribeira, you'll come to a large plaza filled with restaurants. They are all technically tourist-traps since they're made to serve the massive amounts of visitors who trek to the location every year. Therefore, don't be surprised if you spot a few backpackers in the area grabbing a bite alongside their rucksacks. Why not pull up a chair instead as all the food is still reasonably priced for the area?
We ended up going to Maruxia and their menu was available in four languages, including German and French. I'd highly recommend it for its tasty food, convenient location, and spacious terrace with a view of the port. The wait staff was also very friendly and attentive even in the middle of everything happening with the COVID-19 in August 2020. If their menu doesn't appeal to you or you just don't enjoy seafood, you could be out of luck sadly since that's the majority of the town's fare. However, you can try to turn back a few meters to find Miramar Bar. They have some of the most authentic regional food in the town and not all dishes had their origins from the sea. They only open in the evening for dinner however, you don't expect to get your grub on until around 18h00 (6PM). Bueno provecho!
Finisterre’s main plaza filled with restaurants
What To Eat & Drink
Galician food is supposed to be some of the best in Spain, especially if you like seafood. Try the pulpo a plancha (grilled octopus) if you're feeling adventurous or gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp); both are certain to make your mouth water. If you're not a fan of shellfish, but like fish, have the lubina a la brasa (grilled seabass) or merluza a la plancha (grilled hake).
Galician cuisine at its finest
Don't like mariscos in general? Get the zorza con patatas, a yummy a dish of meat and potatoes, or the filete de ternera (veal steak). Vegetarian or vegan? Then get the pimientos de padrón, a veritable Russian roulette of flavor. Rumor has it that you'll never find more savory peppers than on Galicia but be aware; most of the peppers are mild but once in a while you'll come across one that's lava-hot so don't bite off more than you can chew, at least at first.
In case the peppers do unfortunately burn your mouth off, why not put the fire out with a cold drink? You can try drinking the white wine from the area (known as albariño) or an ice-cold Estrella beer which is also brewed locally.
If you have the time, make sure to grab something to eat before you head up to the lighthouse to fuel up or on your way down to refuel. Either way, your taste buds are sure to be delighted!
Taking a chance to meditate…
Final Thoughts
No matter whether you arrive there on foot, by Blablacar or by bus, Finisterre is a charming seaside town steeped in enough history and lore to keep you entertained. Thus, it might be worth sticking around the area for a few days to really soak up the ambience as well as some sea breeze.
Spotting some dolphins at Cape Finisterre
Walk around the port and see about chartering a boat to discover more of the coast or hike around the rest of the peninsula to find other hidden gems such as As Pedras Santas, Ermida de San Guillermo or Praia Mar de Fora.
Better yet, why not catch a ride up Costa da Morte to explore some other fishing villages nearby like Muxia or Lires? There’s no limit to the sights that you can see when you journey to Cape Finisterre so take in its magic and luscious landscape for as long as you can. You won’t regret getting to the end.
May you get lost in the wonder,
M