Walking into paradise like…
I had the pleasure of getting to tour these gorgeous islands on my first trip post-COVID-19 to Galicia. This Spanish autonomous community is situated in northwestern Spain in the Atlantic Ocean and is renowned for its seafood and panoramic coasts. The countryside is also filled with endless, amazing sites but the Cies Islands is definitely one worth writing home about.
This archipelago is a natural gem cresting at the mouth of the Ria de Vigo and was instituted as a natural reserve in 1980 before being added to the National Maritime-Terrestrial Park of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia in 2002. It's made of three islands, Do Faro (Lighthouse Island), Monte Agudo (Sharp Mountain Island) and San Martiño (South Island) and features some of the best beaches in the world. Do Faro and Monte Agudo Islands are connected by a strip of sand known as the famed Rodas Beach, which is bordered by crystal clear waters.
There was a reason it was nicknamed the Island of the Gods by the Romans and it also serves as a wildlife preserve, housing several species of birds who nest in its cliffs. As it is a protected site, you have to acquire permission from the government to access the island but the process is a breeze and I've detailed everything you need to know in this guide. Let's dive in!
What To Know Before You Go
As aforementioned, registration through the Galician government's website is compulsory to even buy a ferry ticket as all companies will ask for it when purchasing passage. You can reserve your entry directly through the site but there are only around 2000 spots allotted per day so book in advance if possible.
Obviously, due to Galicia's typically rainy weather, it can be hard to predict which dates would be best but the region generally experiences sunnier days in late summer to early fall. The weather conditions aside, the water will still be freezing-cold, reaching only about 16°C (60°F) by midsummer so enter if you dare.
The famous Rodas Beach
Furthermore, as the islands are part of a natural preserve, modern facilities are limited. There's no potable water anywhere on the island so make sure to bring plenty. There are a supermarket and a couple of restaurants where you can purchase drinks and other sustenance but you can bet they'll be highly overpriced. Don't say you haven't been warned so bring your own food if you can.
Another thing equally important to take note of is that there are no trash cans on the island so visitors are strictly encouraged to bring their own plastic bags for disposal. Those caught littering could face a fine of 600€ so go green and protect Mother Earth by making sure you leave no trace behind.
Alternatively, you can buy some trash bags at the supermarket market but, again, don't be surprised if you balk at the prices. Access to toilets is also limited so pop into any restaurants to use theirs before exploring if you can. Plan in advance for the lack of facilities and you should be grand. Just make sure to bring plenty of sunscreen as the sun has been known to leave a nasty sunburn, even on cloudy days.
Besides the restaurants and supermarket, there's also a visitor's center off one of the main hiking trails but its hours are limited on the weekend. Don't forget to bring adequate footwear as some of the hiking paths become steep at some points.
Camping is also possible on the island at a designated campsite but a permit is required and there are only about 800 spots a day. Ensure that you acquire your permit for the same days you initially registered for. The campsite is about 25 square miles in size and is located a mere 150 feet from the sea and has a restaurant, cafe, shop, and lounge. You can bring your tent for the weekend or pay a fee to have one already set up for you before you arrive. The pre-arranged accommodation will include a bed and mattress so you can fall sleep comfortably to the sound of the waves. However, there is no electricity on the grounds so pack a flashlight.
Enjoying the summer breeze…
How To Get There
The easiest way to get to the Cies Islands is to book passage with a ferry company in Vigo which has an international airport you can fly into. There are also ferries available from Baiona and Cangas, other cities in the region, but Vigo has the most frequent departures from its passenger terminal.
If you're staying elsewhere in Galicia, there are several transportation options via bus or train to Vigo. We stayed in Santiago de Compostela and trains were running every hour to Vigo for about 20€ round trip. Once you reach Vigo, head to the Vigo Maritime Station to find your ferry company's booth which is about a 25-minute walk from the train station or a 5€ taxi ride.
Find Naviera Nabia Cies Pier right by Rodas Beach
The best-known ferry companies are Mar de Ons, Pirates of Nabia, and Cruceros Rias Baixas but these typically only offer passage from June to September or for special holidays such as Easter. Keep in mind that the tickets cannot be printed in advance and must be picked up at the maritime office before you board the ferry. Leave yourself enough time as lines can get long but the ferries thankfully tend to run every hour or so and round-trip passage usually costs around 40€. Simply make sure you catch the last ferry back or you might find yourself camping for the night.
To book your seat on the ferry, however, you must also have the registration code given to you by the Galician's government's website once you select your visit date. The code is only valid for about 2 hours after you reserve your place so book your ferry tickets as soon as that's done.
Alternatively, you can also sail your boat to the islands and anchor off the coast but access still requires an anchoring permit. Unfortunately, San Martiño Island can only be reached by private boat as there are no regular ferry lines to that location. If you can afford to rent or charter a yacht and bring it over, why not? The other island will practically be your own private paradise.
Which Sites To See
The islands are filled with eye-popping stretches of white sand beaches and aquamarine waters along with four hiking paths that lead to different points of interest within the two main islands.
Cies Lighthouse Mountain Route: This popular route is 4.3 miles long and is categorized as having medium difficulty. Along the route, you'll pass Nos Señora Beach as well as Pedra da Campá off on a side trail. From there, about 100 yards ahead you'll be able to visit the bird observatory or look out onto Rodas Beach. If you continue back on the main trail to the highest point, you'll arrive at the Cies Lighthouse from which you'll gain an unbelievable view of all the islands. This walking path also links to the next route which features another lighthouse.
A Porto Lighthouse Route: This less-traveled route is 3 miles long and is said to be one of the easier paths. This route will take you past Nos Señora Beach, designated campsites, and the bird observatory before bringing you to Carracido Pier along the south of the island. From here, you can continue up another trail to A Porto Lighthouse and get some gorgeous views of San Martiño island in the distance. This path also connects to the one leading to the Cies Lighthouse, the highest point on the islands.
Agudo Mountain Route: This route is 3.4 miles long and isn't known to be as easy as the others yet it still isn't too difficult to navigate. During your walk, you'll pass by Figueiras Beach, the only nudist beach on the island, along with the bird observatory. Also off on a side path is O Peito Lighthouse, the closest point to the mainland at a distance of only 1.2 miles. From there, you'll also be able to observe the Ons Islands, another member of the national park.
Alto do Principe Route: This route is a mere 1.8 miles long and is considered the easiest path on the islands. On this route, you'll pass Figueiras Beach as well as the Figueiras-Muxieiro dune complex (inaccessible to the fragility of the flora). Climb up to the top of Agudo Mountain to find Alto do Principe to see more panoramic views of the western side of the islands along with some rocks sculpted by nature to form Cadeira da Raíña (La Silla de la Reina). There's limited shade on this route so make sure to wear sun protection.
Pro-tip: Instead of following the boardwalk to the right of the pier which leads to the forest path, walk down Rodas Beach to the left to take in the epicness of the aquatic landscape. Go nearly to the far end of the beach to find another path to your right that merges into the Cies Lighthouse Mountain and A Porto Lighthouse Routes a few yards ahead up some stairs.
There are several sites that you can hike to on the island so I've separated the lists to go over those in Monte Agudo Island to the north, O Faro Island to the south, and San Martiño island in the distance. I've excluded the beaches for now since the best should always be for last and if you get entranced by the beach (which I wouldn't blame you for), you might miss out on all the hidden gems this paradise has to offer. Take a look around since you may just be pleased with what you find.
View from Cies Lighthouse Mountain Route
Sites To See
O Faro Island
Cies Lighthouse - the highest point on the island where lighthouse provides an incredible view of the islands
Pedra da Campá - a large stone with a naturally-made window through it
Lake dos Nenos - the large lake to the west of Rodas Beach bordered by Faro Lighthouse Route
Alto da Campá Bird Observatory - an aviary where you can spy some of the rarest species of birds nesting
Old Cies Prison and Chuco’s Tavern - the island’s former prison that has since been converted into a modern-day tavern
Cies Cemetery - the cemetery of the islands’ old convent
Cies Islands Camping Area - a place pitch or rent a tent for a night or two (permit required)
Carracidas Resting Area - a wooded area filled with picnic tables where you can have lunch or rest your feet
Ruínas Mosteiro de San Esteban - a former monastery and site of the current tourism office
There are four restaurants in this section of the islands: Rodas Restaurant, Cies Islands Taperia Restaurant, Serafin Restaurant Bar, and Bocadillos Begoño Bar. Food and drinks are known to be overpriced for obvious reasons so try to pack your refreshments as these are also the only restaurants on the islands.
Monte Agudo Island
View from Naviera Nabia Cies Pier
Naviera Nabia Cies Pier - the entry port for most commercial ferry companies
Alto do Principe - the highest point on Monte Agudo Island
Do Peito Lighthouse - a lighthouse from which the cliffs of Costa da Vela are visible
Furna de Monteagudo - a sea cave that is explorable at low tide (water shoes recommended)
Cadeira da Raíña (La Silla de la Reina/Queen’s Chair) - a throne made of stone that overlooks Alto do Principe
Virgin of Carmen Church Ruins - a shrine that was built into a church in the 18th century
Dunes of Muxieiro (inaccessible) - a complex of dunes that house many types of flora and fauna as well as the ruins of Ancient Cuncheiro
San Martiño Island
San Martiño Beach - the only beach on the island
Bicos Lighthouse - another lighthouse that looks out onto the Galician coast
In case you have chartered a boat, there are several scenic capes to sail to around the island besides the beach. A few of the most breathtaking are Xesteira Point, Dos Bicos Cape, Fornos Cove, Concela Point, Dos Gabotos Cove, or San Martiño Point. The island is quite mountainous so it’s not advised to attempt to hike it unless taking the route toward Bicos Lighthouse.
If hiking isn't your thing or you'd rather go for a leisurely swim but don't have a boat, head to one of the beaches on the island. Bring some swimming goggles to try and spot some fish in the water but take note that fishing isn't not allowed in the area and diving is only allowed via a permit. The Vigo estuary holds a ton of aquatic biodiversity as well as several sunken shipwrecks to explore underneath its waters. The location has been the site of famous historical battles at sea and used to be a refuge for sailors and pirates alike to anchor their ships. For those who love to go diving, this is an idyllic place to spend the day under the sea.
For those who prefer to stay closer to the surface, there are still many beaches to discover on the islands and I'll cover all of them in case you feel fancy enough to charter your way to San Martiño.
Lookout next to Cies Lighhouse
Where To Swim
In total, there are 9 beaches between the three islands, some of which are nudist, hidden or only accessible by private boat yet all are stunningly gorgeous with crystal clear waters. I'll break them down by island to allow you to better organize which would fit into your itinerary.
Bear in mind that most hiking routes can take 1-3 hours to reach their final destination as the islands are bigger than you realize until you get there. Unless you're planning to camp there overnight or stay anchored off the coast in your boat, trying to fit in all the sights in only a narrow window won't leave you much time to appreciate the islands' beauty fully. You might have to reconcile yourself to revisiting to uncover more like I did.
Beaches To Swim
O Faro Island
Stairway to Nos Señora Beach
Rodas Beach
The most popular beach is by far Rodas Beach but it is highly recommended to wander as much of the islands as you can along their hiking trails. It's easy to reach as it's next to the pier where most ferries dock their ships to drop off passengers so you’ll be able to step out onto it first. Its waters might be icy cold (all of them are) but the waves are quite gentle and the shore doesn't dip too dramatically, making it one of the most family-friendly areas.
Bolas Beach
This tiny beach is just as the end of Rodas Beach, past the large rock fixtures to the left that separate the two beaches. Sometimes referred to as Os Viños Beach, you can alternatively find it through the forest path, a route that will also take you close to the islands' old cemetery. The water is shallow but filled with smooth stones covered in green algae so it's recommended to wear water shoes when visiting. As it's not far from Rodas, it is often packed with families with frolicking children. If you get back on the path to head to the next beach on the list, you can also visit the Cies Islands' Old Prison which has now been converted into a tavern.
Nos Señora Beach
Along both the Cies Lighthouse and A Porto Lighthouse Routes, you'll encounter a crossroads with a path leading toward Nos Señora Beach, also known as Carracido Beach. It’s a small stretch of sand that is a bit more secluded than its larger sisters and if you’re coming from the previously mentioned beach, then you can also stop by Old Cies Prison and Chuco’s Tavern. Locate the seat of stairs that lead down to the beach’s crystal waters and marvel at the splendor of the rocky cliffs enclosing it. This beach can also be quite popular with the younger crowd so don’t expect to have the place all to yourself.
Monte Agudo Island
Figueiras Beach
The second most visited beach is certainly Figueiras Beach, also colloquially referred to as La Playa de Los Alemanes (Germans' Beach) for all the tourists that tend to flock there. It's the only nudist beach on the islands so if you feel the urge to bare it all, head there. The islands' second-biggest beach is on the other side of the pier, just opposite its position to Rodas Beach and easy to reach on foot. Simply take the Monte Agudo or Alto del Principe Routes (the starting points are the same) until you reach a three-way crossroads. Ignore the left two paths to turn off to the right. Keep right at the next fork in the road to follow the path to the spectacular scenery of Figueiras Beach and maybe a nudist or two.
Areiña Beach
This secluded beach is easy to find down a small path to the right of the trail called the Camiño de Muxieiro that leads to Figueiras Beach close to the pier. Areiña Beach is one of the smallest on the islands but it is often forgone for its more popular sisters. On the right day, you might find the entire place to yourself. Before you leave the area, search for the Church of the Virgin of Carmen nearby, located at the next beach on this list.
Muxieiro Beach
Just like the previous beach, Muxieiro is located on the other side of the pier past the restaurant down the Camiño de Muxieiro. Rather than following the small path that leads to Areiña Beach, continue until you find the path that leads to the next beach. There is a small chapel dedicated to the Virgin of Carmen. The church of Nuestra Señora del Carmen was originally built as a shrine to Saint Joseph and was rebuilt by Remigio del Mármol in the 18th century in a neoclassical style. The altarpiece was constructed by Juan de Dios Santaella and the tall columns inside lead to a tower crowned by a statue of the prophet Elijah. The church is declared a national monument so don’t skip it if you don’t have to. The beach itself is small and secluded, making for a peaceful afternoon without the crowds.
Margaridas Beach
This beach can be found by taking either the Monte Agudo or Alto del Principe Routes as their paths start the same. Keep on the main route until you come to a three-way fork in the road. The left two paths lead to Alto del Principe and O Peito Lighthouse, respectively, so take the right-hand path until you encounter another fork in the road and find the path that goes to the beauty of Margaridas Beach. It's protected by rocks which make the beach quite narrow and a bit of hike to get down to but the water is shallow enough and you can safely bet that there won't be as many people there.
Cantareira Beach
The last beach on the two main islands is also the most secluded since it takes the longest to reach. It’s also the islands’ only cobblestone beach, meaning there’s no pesky sand to bother you. Find the small beach just on the other side of Margaridas Beach on the same path. You won’t regret the trek once you get lost in its crystalline waters.
View from Cies Lighthouse onto A Porto Lighthouse and San Martiño Island
San Martiño Island
San Martiño Beach
I’m guessing you felt fancy enough to charter a boat to this more exclusive island or are fortunate enough to own one. If the latter is the case, don’t forget you’ll need an anchoring permit to dock your boat near the coast of the beach. They are sure to be other sailboats lined up around the beach but you rest assured that it won’t be as packed as Rodas or Figueiras Beaches nor include a hike like the other beaches on Monte Agudo Island. Keep back and relax on the nearly untouched sand or have a boat party with your neighbors. Can you think of a better way to get lost in paradise?
Final Thoughts
Rock fixture separating Rodas and Os Viños Beaches
The Cies Islands have a plethora of sights to see, some hidden and some popular, yet you can rest assured that they’ll have something to offer you. From their unblemished, white sands to their clear-as-glass, there’s a lot of beauty to take in, particularly from the sweeping views from their lighthouses. Whether you prefer to hike, swim or sail to these destinations is ultimately up to you but make the time to uncover as much as possible. You won’t regret it.